It’s fair to say that chef Masa Takayama is one of the forefounders of Japanese fine-dining in NYC.
In 2007 his eponymous Midtown restaurant (which first opened in 2004) entered the inaugural New York City Michelin guide with a knock-out two stars. Two years later, it did the triple and got its third Michelin star, making it the first Japanese restaurant in the US to receive the guide’s top award. (Eagle-eyed among you will note that after 15 years at the top, in the 2025 guide it was docked down to two stars amid a nation-wide Michelin shake-up).
This month, though, Takayama is departing the Big Apple for Los Angeles for a five-night residency from September 16-20. While it was in New York that the chef properly made his name, LA was his first proper introduction to the US, when what was initially meant to be a vacation led him to relocate from Japan.
His first restaurants in the US were Saba-ya and Ginza Sushiko in 1980 and 1987 respectively, with which Takayama set out to offer a dining experience similar to that experienced in Japan and, despite the low-key look and lack of publicity, garnered a reputation for high-quality ingredients, extremely personalized service, and steep prices (for the time, at least).
His return to LA marks the first time he has cooked professionally in the city for over two decades. For the occasion, Takayama is heading to The Peninsula Beverley Hills on Santa Monica Boulevard as part of the hotel’s 35th anniversary celebrations.
“Our 35th anniversary is about celebrating our legacy, but also asking what comes next,” said Rebecca Goldberg, hotel manager at The Peninsula Beverly Hills. “We need to be part of the culture of our city and give our guests a reason to keep coming back and discovering something new. Food is such an important part of that – it brings people together, creates memories, and can define an experience. Welcoming Masa from New York to Beverly Hills feels incredibly special.”
Chef Takayama will be hosting two sittings per night across the five-day residency. Each will be highly intimate with just ten seats at the counter per sitting. True to his now-signature style, the experience will be presented in omakase format (literally translating into ‘I’ll leave it up to you’), with dishes based on spontaneity. What we do know, however, is that chef will be showcasing some of the standout dishes from throughout his career, including his signature Toro Caviar: fatty tuna chopped until it becomes a tartare, topped with Osetra caviar and finished with lime and chives.
The multi-course menu is $795 per person with a sake pairing priced additionally. Wondering how to get a table? This exclusive dining experience is available for hotel guests but there are limited seats available to the public (though it will likely be worth staying the night).
