Plaza Athénée’s fine dining restaurant has a history of partnering with high-profile chefs – Alain Ducasse reigned here for 21 years, while successor Jean Imbert had a four-year spell before stepping down in 2025.
Now, the hotel is breaking with tradition, launching a concept that forgoes a famous name in favor of a culinary ensemble – a third of whom have worked within Plaza’s kitchens for more than a decade.
The name alone, La Grande Table du Plaza Athénée, signals the restaurant’s new direction, bringing to mind an entire team of tastemakers – overseen by chefs Jocelyn Herland, Anthony Di Prospero, and pastry maestro Angelo Musa. Rooted in classical French cuisine, La Grande Table’s six-course ‘Les Agapes’ tasting menu reimagines the recipes and practises of 19th century chefs such as Auguste Escoffier and Jules Gouffé – resulting in a collective that spans centuries of culinary experience.
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While the concept is new, the extravagant dining room is familiar – its glistening chandeliers and gilded ceiling providing a fitting backdrop for La Grande Table’s revival of Belle Epoque banquets. The antique 12-meter-long marble table, meanwhile, comes into its own – acting as a convenient centerpiece for the restaurant’s new collective ethos. Those who prefer privacy over grandeur can instead drop a €1,000 (approx $1,150) deposit on the ‘Cabinet des Conspirateurs’ chef’s table in the kitchen.
Back in the main dining room, the scene is set for a theatrical six-act affair. The experience is at its best when the team lean into the pomp, dishing out soup from humorously huge tureens, flambéing langoustines tableside, and brandishing an iron to caramelise a dainty petit four.
Come the main course, our table transforms into a feast, with individual entrées (seafood-rich turbot Dieppoise, nutty sea bass with Vin Jaune, or grilled pigeon with black fruits) accompanied by a trio of sides: colorful vegetables twirled into floral displays; autumnal agnolotti with creamy chanterelles; and indulgent millefeuille-style potato confit that prompts a tussle with my partner.
With no formal wine menu, our pairings are instead personalized by trusty sommelier Laurent Roucayrol – cue a coupe (or two) of Champagne Billecart-Salmon Vintage 2016, followed by a floral Saint-Aubin Premier Cru “Murgers des Dents de Chien” 2020.
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Where the restaurant falls slightly short is in contextualizing the menu. While the reverse side touches on traditional ingredients and anecdotes, it glosses over the real historical significance of each dish. Only when seeking out further details did I discover the extensive research packed into each bite – insight that elevates the experience beyond mere theatrics.
La Grande Table’s purpose, however, is to entertain rather than educate – an act that plays out best during the ‘interlude’ course. As we polish off a simple yet surprisingly standout plate of French cheese, the team breaks the fourth wall – whisking us away from our table to the private wings. It’s here in the kitchen that the concept comes full circle, as we meet the passionate people behind La Grande Table over a refreshing palate cleanser. With a trio of desserts waiting back at our table, we leave the kitchen questioning whether fine dining truly requires a protagonist. In Plaza Athénée’s case, it seems the more the merrier.
