In the heart of London’s St James’s, not far from Buckingham Palace, is Justerini & Brooks, a wine and spirits merchant that’s been keeping the Crown in drink since 1761.
Renowned for its expertise in fine Burgundy, Bordeaux, and Champagne, as well as its access to the world’s top single malts, Justerini’s (or J&B, as it’s often simply known) has been a go-to for London epicureans for nigh on three hundred years.
But even a royal warrant holder needs a little nip and tuck sometimes – and this week Justerini’s unveils a completely refreshed HQ, where private clients can explore and enjoy the very best in drinks.
Related article: Louis XIII’s New Cognac Comes With Its Own Cooling Cellar
“It’s not a shop or an events space or an office – it’s much more than that,” says buying director Giles Burke-Gaffney. “It’s about welcoming people into our home – a place where they can meet like-minded people, whether that’s fellow drinks lovers or wine and whisky makers, and share – and hear – their stories. We want to build a community.”
The new-look townhouse now boasts four floors of smart spaces designed for dinner, tastings, and drinks, with stylish interiors that nod to the area’s Georgian heritage.
Clients arriving by the street-level entrance are greeted by a reception and a small boutique, stocked with an ever-changing selection of 60 wines and whiskies. “You might pick up a Margaux ’96, or a Lafleur ’01, or a David Sadie Chenin Blanc,” says Burke-Gaffney. “The intention is for it to be very bespoke, very personal.” The space is also equipped for more informal, ad-hoc tastings, says Burke-Gaffney: “You never know who you might find – just the other day we had Charles Philipponnat, of Philipponnat Champagne, opening a few vintages in here.”
The vaulted cellar downstairs has been completely overhauled to create a warm, bright space where up to 20 people at a time can taste and dine surrounded by walls of sleeping bottles.
Upstairs on the first floor (via a staircase lined with framed royal warrants) is the Library – a duck egg-blue salon with comfy sofas and chairs where clients can meet with J&B experts to taste and discuss the management of their collections. In this room is also a dining table where many illustrious guests have lunched over the years, from members of the royal family to stars of sport and entertainment. Burke-Gaffney is naturally far too discreet to name names – but past Justerini’s customers have ranged from Fred Astaire to Charles Dickens. “And we’ve definitely had people popping in between shoots to get their Cheval Blanc.”
“Everyone who comes for lunch or dinner here must also sign The Book,” says Burke-Gaffney, miming a weighty tome. “Reading back through it is great fun – it’s full of characters.”
Up on the top floor is a dining room equipped with a Michelin star-grade kitchen, which can host up to 14 guests for by-invitation wine dinners and collaborations with top chefs. “We held a dinner recently for some of our top Burgundy clients, featuring twenty-one vintages of Comte Liger-Belair’s La Romanée – presented by the Comte himself,” says Burke-Gaffney. “The people round the table really knew their stuff and had already seen most things. But to see their jaws drop at the sight of that was really a magical moment.
Related article: What Should You Drink with a Cigar? Experts Share Their Favorite Pairings
“Or another night it might be a dinner with a leading name in whisky like Johnnie Walker’s master blender Emma Walker,” he adds. J&B is owned by Diageo, giving it unrivalled access to the drinks giant’s whisky portfolio, which includes Brora, Port Ellen, Talisker, and Lagavulin. This reaches its pinnacle in the Casks of Distinction program, an invitation-only cask collection scheme, which gives aficionados unique access to some of Diageo’s finest and rarest malts. “As we get to know clients there might also be the possibility, over time, of helping to facilitate visits.”
Like many buildings in this part of town, the Justerini’s HQ used to be a gentleman’s club: its neighbors include Boodles, Brooks’s, and White’s. “And we want to retain some of that historic feel, that clubby atmosphere,” says Burke-Gaffney. “We want to hear laughter ringing through the stairwell and for people, most of all, to have fun. Because ultimately this is a place for indulging people’s passion.”
