What makes a scent feel like fall? Traditionally, September’s cooler temperatures call for richer, warmer compositions, but with longer summers and shifting fragrance trends, knowing when to make the switch – and what to switch to – has become a little more complicated.
For Sileno Cheloni, master perfumer at Florence-based Profumoir, the answer isn’t necessarily to reach for something heavier. Instead, he sees autumn as a gradual shift towards fall fragrances that feel more grounded. “Rather than trends, at Profumoir we prefer to speak of ‘necessities of the soul,’” he says. “If summer invites evaporation and lightness, autumn represents a return to the Earth.”
Rather than following a rigid fragrance calendar, based on changing climates, Cheloni suggests embracing fall for what it represents: a period of new beginnings and “a time of year dedicated to grounding, reflection, and rebuilding one’s vital energy.” The scents we choose, he says, should be one that “helps us put down roots” in a time of change and renewal.
Fall fragrances to shop now
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How to Transition between seasons
As warmer temperatures linger, the early days of fall don’t necessarily call for a dramatic change in your fragrance wardrobe. Rather than immediately abandoning your summer scent, Cheloni believes some compositions can transition particularly well into the next season. “The summer scents that beautifully accompany the early days of autumn are those connected to the marine element: aquatic notes and salty accords that, when touching the skin, awaken the vibrant memory of holidays.” The trick is to look for fresher compositions alongside green and aromatic notes, or delicate florals. These retain the lightness of summer while introducing some of the more textured character of the season ahead.
Choosing a fragrance for early fall
Neroli is another unexpected choice. While typically associated with warmer months, Cheloni considers it particularly appropriate for autumn, especially in the Mediterranean, where citrus remains prominent at this time of year. “It carries the memory of the sun, distilling it into the cooler months,” he says. White flowers, jasmine, bergamot, and lemon can have a similar effect. They retain their freshness while temperatures remain relatively mild, although Cheloni argues they begin to feel less suited to the season once winter properly arrives.
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A master perfumer's favorite scents
When true fall arrives, Cheloni recommends leaning earthy, but not dark. “Personally, I find an unexpected charm in aromatic notes,” he says. Look towards fragrances built around “warm and primordial” amber; “resinous and enveloping”benzoin; and vetiver, which evokes “damp earth and the deep allure of roots.”
