Under the Antarctic’s dense pack ice lie a series of meandering tunnels. These passages were formed over thousands of years as snow compacted into dense glacial ice. Normally inaccessible, for a few days during summer – typically just two to three weeks – the ravines are empty, drained of water. The glistening walls arch and refract as light hits them from above, moving through a kaleidoscope of azure, turquoise, and cyan.
A guided excursion through these iridescent chambers is offered by Antarctica travel leaders White Desert. Access requires a multi-hour hike across immense open ice fields, where expanses of white stretch virtually as far as the eye can see, before descending below ground.
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The blue tunnels are close to White Desert’s Whichaway camp, which is accessible only via private plane and is considered Antarctica’s first luxury base, but can also be incorporated into an itinerary at Explorer camp. New this season, White Desert’s latest accommodation is made up of seven geometric domes, each clad in white to blend into the vast surrounding landscape.
The journey to the tunnels is as much a part of the experience as the destination itself. The expedition begins in Cape Town, where guests board a private Gulfstream G550 for the flight south to Antarctica. After flying over the Southern Ocean, guests land directly onto Wolf’s Fang Runway, a remote landing strip surrounded by mountains and ice. From here, the journey continues by expedition vehicle and on foot, with specialist guides on hand to lead guests across the impressive polar terrain.
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Back at Whichaway Camp, a rare ice-free oasis, activities range from ice-cave excursions and guided walks to climbing and visits to nearby emperor penguin colonies, depending on conditions and the season. Just a handful of guests are permitted to stay in the insulated pods, each designed to withstand the extreme Antarctic environment. Every pod has its own en-suite bathroom and shower, alongside a writing desk, storage, and international power points for charging cameras (make sure to bring yours). There is also a Nova coffee machine and kettle, with a selection of teas for warming up after a day on the ice. Beyond the pods, the camp has a sauna and ice plunge, complimentary massages, and a dome for yoga and meditation.
The blue tunnels offer one of the more unusual excursions in White Desert’s repertoire (of which there are many). Their brief annual appearance is governed by the Antarctic summer and the movement of meltwater, meaning there is no guarantee that conditions will be suitable on the trip. For those who are willing to make the descent, however, the reward is well worth the risk.
