As is the way with more formal occasions, cocktail hour is yet another where sartorial rules have been set. Traditionally, the formula is straightforward: men wear tailoring and polished shoes, while women opt for dresses that sit between daytime elegance and black-tie glamour.
That said, it seems that the rigidness of these rules has started to lax slightly – for women, at least. Once dominated by midi dresses and heels, cocktail events are now just as likely to feature impeccably cut tuxedos, oversized blazers and sharply tailored trousers – all borrowed from the menswear playbook.
As womenswear has become more androgynous, it was perhaps inevitable that occasion dressing would follow. But does a perfectly cut suit carry the same sartorial weight as an evening dress? Or are some dress codes worth preserving? To settle the debate, we asked two women with very different perspectives: designer Alice Temperley, founder and creative director of Temperley London, and stylist Serena Crawley.
See also: Should Your Suit Trousers Be Straight or Slim?
For androgynous dressing
Alice Temperley, fashion designer
I strongly support the idea that androgynous dressing is suitable for cocktail attire.
At its best, it’s about precision tailoring and restraint rather than overt gender cues. A well-cut suit – with a softly structured or sharp shoulder, a gently tapered or wide leg, and either a cinched or subtly boxy waist – captures this balance. Elevated fabrics such as velvet, silk blends, satin lapels or fluid wool bring it firmly into eveningwear territory without relying on traditional codes.
I collected suits while studying and love how they make you feel. I love wearing our velvet three-piece clove suit, which comes in multiple colors and remains a bestseller. I’d be perfectly happy with a wardrobe made up mostly of suits and just five dresses.
The degree of androgyny is fluid. A tie isn’t “too much” – it’s simply a styling tool that can sharpen the look when worn with intention. Open collars, minimal jewelry or a slight heel can soften or shift the tone.
Far from a trend, this way of dressing feels timeless, rooted in individuality and quiet confidence, often reading as more modern and self-assured than conventional cocktailwear.
Against androgynous dressing
Serena Crawley, fashion stylist
While the androgynous look can easily take you from day to night, or office to party, the cocktail dress offers something more. The dress code really just means ‘dress up’ for a party without the formalities of evening wear. And the freedom that this gives you is one of the best things about it!
You could go maximalist; brightly colored lace, organza, silk, satin, sequins. For all the textures that are synonymous with a party, look at Staud, Cecilie Bahnsen or Dries Van Noten.
Or, you could go minimalist – take inspiration from a cool-girl ‘90s satin slip dress which is so on trend at the moment.
