Mexican food is finally having its long-awaited London moment. For years, the capital was teased for its lack of decent tacos – especially compared to culinary heavyweights like New York, LA, Miami, and even parts of Europe – but a wave of buzzy openings over the past few years has slowly started to shift that reputation.
The popularity and commercial success of Santiago Lastra’s KOL is perhaps the clearest example of how far Mexican food has come in London. The slick, two-Michelin-starred Marylebone restaurant serves a tasting menu built around seasonal British produce, interpreted through traditional Mexican flavors and techniques. Last year, thanks to growing demand, it even transformed its downstairs mezcal bar into a dedicated dessert-and-drinks space.
And it’s not just high-end restaurants like KOL that are thriving in the capital. More informal taqueria-type spots like La Chingada and Sonora Taquería have built loyal followings for traditional-style Mexican street cooking, serving everything from slow-cooked birria to nopales, all paired with a glass of homemade horchata, while breakfast spot Bad Manners – a shiny Airstream parked in the front garden of Shoreditch Church – regularly draws weekend queues for its loaded burritos.
Mexican influence has well and truly spilled into London’s drinking scene, too. This year, tequila overtook gin as the UK’s spirit of choice, while margaritas have become a fixture on cocktail menus, and mezcal bars continue to pop up across the city.
Hoping to tap into the Mexican momentum is Los Félix, a Michelin-starred restaurant from Grassfed Culture Hospitality led by chef Sebastián Vargas. Hailing from Miami, this June the restaurant will cross the pond for a month-long residency at The Ned, popping up at its restaurant Cantina Malibu.
“This felt like the right moment to share that voice outside of Miami,” affirms chef Vargas. “London has this incredible openness to global culinary identity while still deeply valuing craftsmanship and authenticity, which aligns beautifully with how we cook.”
The residency will bring together Mexican tradition with contemporary fine dining, with a focus on Mesoamerican cuisine. At the heart of the offering is Los Félix’s dedication to heirloom corn, with tortillas made by hand on site daily.
“People here genuinely care about ingredients, history, technique, and narrative. That excites me because our food carries a lot of intention behind it,” adds Vargas.
Chef Sebastian says the collaboration with the Bank-based members’ club felt like a natural fit. “For our first residency in London, The Ned allowed Los Félix to exist honestly without compromising its soul,” he said.
“The Ned understands hospitality as an experience rather than simply a restaurant transaction. There’s culture, energy, music, design, and emotion woven into the space, and that’s very important to us, ” he adds.
As for what London diners can expect, Sebastian hopes to bring the vibrancy of the restaurant’s Miami base to the capital. “The spirit of Los Félix lives in intention. It’s in the sourcing, the nixtamalization process, the smoke, the music, the pace of service, the warmth of hospitality.”
Guests will be able to order from an à la carte menu featuring Los Félix’s best-known dishes alongside several London-exclusive additions. While there are a handful of vegetarian options, the menu leans heavily into seafood and meat: catch-of-the-day crudo with melon, pickled pineapple, lime, and avocado; pork cheek carnitas with orange and chile, sesame macha, and the restaurant’s signature fresh heirloom corn tortillas; and lobster esquites with coconut, morita, fresh cheese, and basil.
For a true taste of Los Félix, Sebastian encourages diners to try the arepa with wild-caught crab, smoked corn, charred plantain leaves, and coconut oil. “It’s truly a dish that represents everything we love: sourcing, culture, art, and flavor.”
Dishes will be served alongside a selection of house-made salsas, and to wash it all down, event partner Modelo Especial will be available on draught, as well as a cocktail menu, created by Los Félix.
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“More than anything, I want people to leave feeling something,” says Vargas. “I want them to feel warmth, humanity, and craftsmanship in every detail, from the tortillas to the music to the hospitality.”
Los Félix’s month-long residency begins June 4 at The Ned’s La Cantina. Book here.
