If there is one thing that generates more buzz than a new NYC restaurant, it is a new restaurant that labels itself as ‘hidden.’ The latest to take on the challenge of walking the fine line between secret and busy is Tsuki – an intimate little noodle bar, hiding away behind informal Chelsea izakaya, Kei.
Tsuki is led by chef Akira Hiratsuka, who originates from Sapporo, Japan, but has weaved his way through several of New York’s best-regarded noodle restaurants. Hiratsuka’s home is best-known as the birthplace of miso ramen, and its rich, hearty broths are a regional signature.
Such ramen can be tried at Kei, but Hiratsuka has upped the exclusivity level for this new opening. While street-facing Kei is proudly informal and designed in the true izakaya style (such establishments are common in Japanese cities, offering a relaxed place to drink and eat small dishes post-work), Tsuki leans more toward the fine side of dining.
Just 16 seats are available per night in the tiny dining room, which is dimly lit with crimson banquettes, wood panelling, and a huge moon mural. The space is dominated by a back-lit bar, displaying an array of ceramics.
Each guest follows the same tasting menu, but while many Japanese set menus are rigid, Tsuki follows a more relaxed pace. The experience spans over six intentional courses, each named for lunar phases (tsuki translates to moon in Japanese). There’s grilled eel omelette, aged tofu with caviar, and wagyu nigiri.
The dish that is vying to be the Tsuki signature, though, is the lobster soba noodle. The result of year-long meticulous testing from chef Hiratsuka, the noodles use a custom recipe of just wheat flour, water, and alkaline water. To achieve the desired elastic texture, the noodles are vacuum mixed, resting over multiple days, and laminated.
Unlike a typical Sapporo ramen, Hiratsuka’s version is brothless, with the noodles instead coated in a highly concentrated lobster sauce, with a rich, aromatic flavor that is the result of slow-cooking lobster shells. The signature plate is served with torched lobster and fried Japanese green onion.
To go with Hiratsuka’s careful tasting menu is a succinct three-drink cocktail pairing. If you prefer, there’s wine, but the Japanese vodka, whiskey, and gin list is impressive for a restaurant of this petite size.
