“This is our third time staying here. This time we’re celebrating our wedding anniversary,” a well-dressed British couple tells me in the lift on my way down to afternoon tea (more on this later) on my first day at Four Seasons Jumeirah Beach in Dubai.
As I sit with a cup of oolong in the glamorously grand Shai Salon, being serenaded by the strums of the hotel’s resident harpist, I overhear European and local businessmen in English and Arabic, trading credentials whilst sipping cappuccinos and qahwa. At the next table along, I observe a group of young women taking selfies. Later, at the resort’s private beach, I spot two famous faces from the world of sport with their young families. Four Seasons Jumeirah Beach has found that oh-so-allusive formula for universal appeal.
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But that’s not to say it doesn’t have personality. For one thing, the staff have loads of it and are adept at making you feel special as soon as you arrive.
Then there’s the decor: opting for a paired back version of Dubai opulence, the hotel takes its design inspiration from Moorish Spain made modern. Shunning the city’s love of skyscrapers, the resort is set within a five-story Andalusian-style property surrounded by lush landscaped gardens. Communal areas are decked in a decidedly neutral color palette of terracotta, sandy beige and flashes of gold leaf. Natural stone and soaring ceilings bring a light airiness and towering flower arrangements act more like artworks.
The location helps too. Opening in 2014 (a lifetime ago in Dubai hotel years) Four Seasons snapped up one of the last prime spots on Jumeirah Beach. Gazing over the Persian Gulf on one side and the iconic cityscape on the other (downtown is a 15-minute drive), Dubai is yours for the taking, whatever your reason for visiting.
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Stay
Arguably the most glamorous of the Emirates, Dubai’s suite game is famously strong, and Four Seasons Jumeirah Beach does not disappoint.
I check into a rather enormous one-bedroom Skyline Suite, which spans 1,463 sq-ft – twice the size of the average Manhattan apartment. As the name alludes, the view is marvelous, with uninterrupted vistas over the entirety of downtown – including the Burj Khalifa – from both the living room and bedroom, as well as the two separate outdoor terraces.
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Adorned in soothing blues and silver, the suite features a walk-in closet and a lavish marble bathroom with a freestanding bath and Diptyque amenities. Chic, yet luxuriously comfortable, with a king-sized bed so cocooning you will not want to leave in the morning (Four Seasons beds are renowned).
The resort’s Speciality Suites, however, take it up another notch with extra privacy, space and wow factor.
The most palatial is the suitably titled Royal Suite that is accessed via a private elevator. In the lounge, white marble floors and columns, a baby grand piano, a sit-down bar and Venetian chandeliers heap the glamor in this substantial 6,458 sq-ft abode. There is also a kitchen and dining table seating 10 comfortably, whilst floor-to-ceiling doors and windows lead to a full-length furnished terrace overlooking the sea. There is also a study, fitness room and media room, as well as a spa-inspired master bathroom with a steam room and impressive marble soaking tub.
Dine
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Back to that afternoon tea – this is a must. Crafted by the resort’s famed French pastry chef, Nicolas Lambert, the ‘Héritage’ afternoon tea menu is inspired by a journey from East to West, taking in flavors from the countries renowned for their tea and coffee credentials. Intricate creations like the shrimp and peanut sambal sandwich from Indonesia, and the delicate French lavender tea and figue de solliès are ridiculously indulgent and mouth-wateringly good (our advice is to go on an empty stomach).
There are also four other distinct food and drink offerings within the hotel including Hendricks Bar, a wood-paneled Cuban cigar lounge with expertly shaken cocktails (try the signature Golden Mirror); vegan eatery Folia; and Suq, where an eclectic breakfast buffet is served daily as well as brunches that attract well-heeled locals on the weekend.
The aptly named rooftop bar Mercury Rooftop is a popular local hangout with one of the best views in town and live DJ sets until the early morning.
Dinner at the modern Asian beachside restaurant Sea Fu is a real treat. The signature tasting menu allows you to sample the best of everything. However, If you do opt for a la carte, make sure to try the signature volcano rolls with fresh Scottish salmon, pickled radish and teriyaki sauce. A grating of fresh wasabi on the side is the ultimate finishing touch.
Within the gates of the 14-acre resort, you will also find the fashionable ‘Restaurant Village’ across from the hotel’s main entrance, hosting hotspots such as Salt Bae’s Nusr-Et steakhouse; renowned Japanese cocktail bar Mimi Kakushi; and an outpost of London favorite, Coya.
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Relax
The Pearl Spa features ten treatment rooms and an extensive treatment menu with facials from European brands like Biologique Recherche and Dr Burgener. Signature body treatments include the ‘Arabian oud balance salt glow’, combining an aromatic hot oil massage and salt exfoliation; whilst cupping and sound healing sessions draw inspiration from the Far East.
Sessions with a personal trainer are available at the state-of-the-art fitness center which is open 24 hours. There are also separate male and female sauna and steam facilities, and an indoor lap pool.
Outside, you’ll find two further pools surrounded by loungers, cabanas and private ‘day villas’ fitted with air conditioning, indoor and outdoor showers, a private bathroom, a mini-bar and flat-screen TV.
The luxury continues on the resort’s private beach with sun loungers equipped with a call button to order drinks or extra towels.
Explore
With the Burj Khalifa, Dubai Mall and The Palm all within a 20-minute drive, Four Seasons Jumeirah Beach is well-placed for exploring the city. A string of taxis wait at the entrance to the resort ready to whisk you to your destination.
The resort also offers a slew of cultural and adventure activities, from touring the storied spice souk to yacht charters.
If visiting for longer than a few days, the Platinum Dessert Experience is a chance to connect with local culture and breathtaking dunes within a private natural reserve. You’ll head out on a wildlife drive in search of oryx before enjoying a falconry performance, camel riding and a six-course feast with fire show and shisha.
Jumeirah Skyline Suite from $1,335 per night, fourseasons.com
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