London has long had a love affair with Sale e Pepe. First opened in Knightsbridge in 1974, the much-loved Italian restaurant has hosted an array of famous guests including actor George Clooney. Now, the brand has taken a stylish detour to the coast with the arrival of Sale e Pepe Mare at The Langham on Portland Place, less than a five-minute walk from Oxford Circus.
It occupies the space once home to the Roux at the Landau and, more recently, the short-lived Mimosa – a restaurant whose brief tenure barely left a footprint in the storied hotel. As expected, the interiors are a dramatic departure from their predecessors. Warm wood panelling and burnt orange and soft blue tones evoke the escapist glamour of la dolce vita without being too try-hard. Meanwhile, timber, marble, and brushed brass work hard to make the space feel inviting and modern. The dining room has striking bow-windows, shielded by café-style curtains that offer just enough privacy from the city outside.
On arrival, I was swiftly shown to a table by said windows (arguably the best seats in the house, so they’re well worth requesting when you book). To my left, a table of animated American businessmen; to my right, a stylishly dressed mother enjoying dinner with her teenage son. It was a snapshot of the restaurant’s broad appeal; a place equally suited to business dinners as family occasions.
The menu charts a journey along Italy’s coastline, from Amalfi to Puglia, and is described as ‘an ode to life by the sea.’ Seafood takes center stage, with the main affair being the frutti di mare, a collection of calamari, langoustines, prawns, scallops, mussels, and oysters. I had to pry my eyes away from this after my waiter encouraged me to look beyond the obvious, pointing me towards what he called the menu’s “hidden gems:” the capesante al forno – Josper-baked scallops with chilli, lemon, parsley, and garlic butter – alongside gamberi scottati, warm red prawns dressed simply with Amalfi lemon and olive oil, and perfectly cooked Dover sole. Good thing I trusted his advice.
Of course, no great Italian dining experience is complete without a little tableside drama. Caesar salad, bucatini cacio e pepe, and risotto are some of the dishes prepared in front of you for theatrical effect. Meanwhile, after dinner, a dessert trolley laden with house-made tiramisu makes its rounds.
But the drinks are where things get really interesting. Alongside a thoughtful selection of Italian wines sits a cocktail menu with a playful, slightly vintage sensibility (think: a line-up of negronis, martinis, and Italian-inspired house classics). I had the cucumber martini – a refreshing mix of Grey Goose vodka, cucumber, lime, apple cordial, and black pepper – which was every bit as crisp as it sounds. If cocktails aren’t your thing though, the restaurant also has one of London’s largest collections of amaro, making a post-dinner digestif feel very much obligatory. Or, you can always head to the hotel’s Artesian bar for a night cap.
