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July 9, 2013updated Sep 16, 2013

Only Watch Auction 2013: Chanel

By Chris Boyle

Chanel Première Flying Tourbillon 2 resizedThis September 28, Monaco will play host to the fifth edition of the ‘Only Watch’ charity watch auction benefiting research for Duchenne muscular dystrophy.

Recognized as the world’s first ever charity watch auction, Only Watch is conducted by the watch auctioneers, Antiquorum.

33 of the world’s leading watch manufactures are donating a unique timepiece specially created for the occasion, one of which will feature on Elite’s website every day leading up to this not-to-be-missed auction.

The proceeds from the sales will be donated to the Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy, promoter of Only Watch with Antiquorum Auctioneers and the Monaco Yacht Show, to help finance research for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, a degenerative neuromuscular disease affecting 1 in 3,500 boys and therefore 250,000 children, adolescents, and young adults around the world.

From September 6, an international exhibit of the Only Watch collection of timepieces for men and women will also travel the world – Singapore, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Beijing, New York – and will be concluded by a presentation during the Monaco Yacht Show (September 25 to 28).

The Only Watch auction itself takes place on September 28 at 11am (GMT+1) in the ‘Salle Belle Epoque’ of the Hôtel Hermitage.


The Première, first watch created by Chanel in 1987, is an example of the brand’s exceptional creativity. Its shape was inspired by the octagonal geometry of the Place Vendôme echoed in the No.5 perfume bottle stopper.

In 2012, on the occasion of its 25th anniversary, Chanel created the Première Flying Tourbillon. This exceptional tourbillon volant has been developed in close collaboration between Chanel and the Swiss manufacturers, engineers and master-watchmakers Renaud & Papi (APRP SA) – the advanced research and development branch of Audemars Piguet.

Last year, for the first time, Chanel was honored at the twelfth ceremony of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), with the Première Flying Tourbillon presented with the ‘Ladies Watch Prize’.

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Description of the Première Flying Tourbillon by Chanel

Unique piece manufactured in Switzerland with movement exclusively developed for Chanel by Renaud et Papi (APRP SA).

High feminine complication, this flying tourbillon decorated with the motif of the camellia – a tribute to Mademoiselle Chanel’s favorite flower – beats away discreetly and almost secretly at the heart of the Première watch.

Having no upper bridge, the carriage decorated with a camellia appears to be rotating in a weightless state.

Unique edition in 18-carat white gold set with 169 diamonds (~2.20 carats) with a black high-tech ceramic bezel exclusively created for Only Watch.


Technical Description

18-carat white gold set with 169 brilliant-cut diamonds ( ~ 2.20 carats) and black high-tech ceramic

18-carat white gold case (28.5 x 37 mm) set with 92 brilliant-cut diamonds (~1.67 carats)

Black high tech ceramic bezel

Colourless anti reflection treated sapphire crystal

Polished black high tech ceramic dial

18-carat white gold hands set with 15 brilliant-cut diamonds

Tourbillon cabochon set with 19 brilliant-cut diamonds

18-carat white gold crown set with 13 brilliant-cut diamonds and black high tech ceramic cabochon

Black high tech ceramic case-back

Strap: sold on a black alligator strap but presented on a black satin strap

18-carat white gold double folding buckle set with 30 brilliant-cut diamonds

Water resistance: 30 meters


“Camélia Flying Tourbillon” Calibre

Movement exclusively developed for Chanel by Renaud et Papi (APRP SA)

Manual winding mechanical movement

40 hour power reserve

Number of parts: 225

Components, chamfered, stretched, and circular grained

Number of rubies: 18

Flying Tourbillon: 73 components – carriage weight: 0.432 g

Frequency: 21’600 vibrations/ hour (3 Hz)

Motor unit: 1 fixed clamp barrel

Spring torque: 720

Custom designed oblong bottom plate

Shockproof system on the balance

Balance with variable inertia moment


Sought Price:  €150,000



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