By Chris Moss
Buenos Aires remains the city European and American expats prefer as a home away from home. Attractions are spread over 48 barrios (neighborhoods) – romantic San Telmo has a mix of grit and glamour, residential Recoleta is a high-end retail and dining hub while leafy Palermo Viejo is the place for boutiques and bars, which spill over into neighboring Villa Crespo.
Meanwhile, Puerto Madero’s real estate continues to grow skyward. All the staples that make a city livable and loveable are here – from craft breweries to hip cafés, tree-shaded plazas to beautiful bookstores. Visitors come from afar to absorb the swagger and shimmer of the locals, who call themselves porteños – people of the port. Their energy flows from the boulevards and backstreets, seducing those who savor a backdrop that is distinctive, eclectic and exotic.
Take a look at where to stay in Buenos Aires.
The Ultimate Suite
Looking for a party pad in Palermo Soho? Want to take a few friends for a weekend of tango and wine tasting? Francis Ford Coppola’s luxury residence-turned-resort Jardin Escondido – meaning hidden garden – offers lush, oasis-like bliss right in the heart of buzzing Palermo.
The interior features six individually decorated suites, with warm hues, stylish rugs, vintage travelers’ trunks, ceramics and lots of candles littering the space, ensuring a creative-yet-calm ambience – plus a well-stocked library and video library. Outside are three levels of gardens, solar-heated pool, alfresco kitchen and parrilla (grill), plus a gorgeous plant-filled terrace. It’s a short walk to cool boutiques, craft markets, restaurants and bars.
Jardin Escondido is open all year, and bookable by room or as an entire property. The filmmaker stays here when he’s visiting the area.
Full property rental, from $2,275 per night. +54 11 4832 8830, thefamilycoppolaresorts.com/en/jardin-escondido
Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt
On the hotel’s top floor, the 1,722 sq ft Duhau Suite (top) enjoys 360-degree views from a wraparound terrace, plus an elegant living space, including dining and sitting areas, private pantry and a master bedroom with connecting bath.
Amenities include butler service and whirlpool tub.
From $7,870 per night buenosaires.park.hyatt.com
Alvear Palace Hotel
This palatial 1,894 sq ft suite (middle) is all chandeliers, Slavonian oak floors, original artwork and French fabrics, with dining room, sitting room, bedroom, two Botticino marble bathrooms and butler service.
Its corner position affords fine views of Avenida Alvear. Sip cortados in the lobby bar; dine on Franco-Argentine cuisine at La Bourgogne.
LA MANSIÓN PRESIDENTIAL SUITE
Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires
This 1,937 sq ft suite (bottom) is a grand setting for living, entertaining and working. The bathroom is decorated in a range of Italian marbles, and a 204 sq ft balcony adjoins the living room, with sublime views over the garden, pool, tower and Jockey Club.
Sofitel Buenos Aires
Restaurant Le Sud serves some of the best French cuisine in the city and its prime location, on the curving street Arroyo, is quiet and shady, despite being just a short walk from the hubbub of the center.
The 1,620 sq ft Imperial Suite is an Art Deco-style apartment occupying its own private floor, with two bedrooms and two bathrooms, living room with home theater, dining rooms, bar, kitchen, plus city and river views – previous owner, shipping magnate Nicolás Mihanovich, had insisted that the Río de la Plata, the source of his wealth, be visible from the upper floors.
From $5,222 per night sofitel.com
A reception service can arrange visits, such as architecture-themed tours, private shopping, speedboat rental, or a wine or food tasting at the acclaimed in-house Tarquino restaurant.
The 1,000 sq ft suite has crystal chandeliers, a super-king bed, two marble bathrooms – one with Jacuzzi – and a 400 sq ft terrace.
From $1,085 per night hubporteno.com