While tequila is often celebrated for its bright, sweet and spicy notes, mezcal, its smokier counterpart, carries a more mysterious allure. A relative newcomer to London’s bar scene, mezcal has an equally deep-rooted history and strong presence in Mexico, with its production dating back to pre-Hispanic times.
In its homeland, mezcal is traditionally sipped straight, so drinkers can appreciate its unique, earthy and multilayered flavor. However, across the pond in the bars of the British capital, spirit enthusiasts have only recently started to warm up to the musky spirit. Distinctive bottles have slowly but surely started to appear on the shelves at top bars, and you’ll increasingly find mezcal making a smoky twist in common classic cocktails.
If you are in London and want to dip your toes into smoky agave spirits, head to the picturesque Motcomb Street in Belgravia. While the sparkling pedestrianized street may feel a million miles away from the agave farms of Oaxaca, new late-night bar LUUM, sat in the basement of the Pantechnicon building, is extremely serious about mezcal.
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A sophisticated cocktail bar and energetic late-night lounge, LUUM hides behind a dark curtain, pulled back to reveal a plush, softly lit bar. Velvet stools, a swirling marble bar and a mirrored ceiling give the space an edgy feel, and leafy printed walls and green plants give a tropical touch and add an element of Latin American flair.
The cocktail menu takes inspiration from the house’s three unique agave-based spirits, divided into three sections: ‘Above the Ground,’ ‘Below the Ground’ and ‘Precious Stones’, with each cocktail and shot of mezcal served in beautifully bespoke glassware and earthenware.
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Above the Ground highlights cocktails created with fruits that grow, you guessed it, above ground, complemented by lighter spirits such as Tequila blanco and pisco. Below the Ground leans towards aged spirits like rum, whisky and aged tequila for richer flavors. Precious Stones, the most expensive collection of cocktails, showcases the bar’s impressive range of vintage spirits, with classic cocktails like the margarita being reimagined using rare bottles sourced from specialist suppliers.
My personal favorite creation was Meet Me at Mapini, found on the Above the Ground menu. Akin to a smokey Tommy’s Margarita, the pisco kept the cocktail refreshingly light and the cayenne rim put a contemporary twist on the tajin rim I had become accustomed to in Mexico. Almost unnervingly easy to drink, the bartender and I agreed that this was going to be a definite favorite.
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The bar team is led by wonderfully warm general manager Stefano Chila, who brings a wealth of experience and expertise from previous positions at Chiltern Firehouse and Annabel’s. While passionate about agave-led spirits, Stefano walked me through the towering bar’s selection with pride, which carried everything from premium Kenyan gin to aged Scottish whiskies.
Chef Coko Becker, formerly of two Michelin-starred Pujol in Mexico City, is at the helm of the Mexican-inspired bar snacks, ensuring you can nibble on truffle quesadillas and moreish garlic tortilla chips as you sip your añejo. If you’re hungry for more, the bar is part of the historic building’s recent refurbishment, which has given birth to brand new Mediterranean restaurant Amélie which can be found upstairs and a transformed Kappo-Japanese restaurant Sachi, now located on the rooftop.
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Ingredients:
50ml El Gobernador pisco
25ml Yerbamate and jalapenos cordial
15ml Lime juice
Method:
Shake the ingredients together. Double strain into Nick & Nora glass. Garnish with cayenne pepper dust and serve.
