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November 26, 2013updated Jan 28, 2014

TEXTURE

By Chris Boyle

Style/Ambiance: Set in a handsome Georgian townhouse off Oxford Street, Texture has helped fuel the current craze for Scandinavia among Europe’s foodies.

Chef Agnar Sverrisson and sommelier Xavier Rousset worked together at Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons before opening Texture in 2007, and their defection from Blanc has earned them a Michelin star, a host of awards and plenty of zeitgeist kudos. Eschewing the butter and cream of French cuisine, Sverrisson instead favors light, pure flavors—many drawn from his native Iceland. Highlights include an amuse-bouche of pea and mint snow, Anjou quail with sweetcorn, shallot, bacon popcorn and red wine essence, and a dessert of passion fruit soup with basil ice cream, mango and ginger. The wine list is well balanced between Old and New Worlds, and the Champagne Bar boasts over a hundred champagnes—one of the biggest collections in London.

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