An address like Palais-Royal requires a fine dining destination – and Le Grand Véfour has ticked that jewel-encrusted box for over 200 years, symbolizing a second home for high society figures including Victor Hugo, Colette, and Honoré de Balzac.
Tucked within the palace’s Galerie de Beaujolais, the site today bears little signs of change – yet a grand reopening in late May signaled an entirely new era. After 34 years at the helm, chef Guy Martin handed the keys over to new owner Paris Society and chef Bruno Doucet. The acquisition is a logical move for Paris Society, whose portfolio of restaurants centers around the principle of "restoration and reinvention.” Consider its recent revival of the city’s Belle Époque restaurant Maxim’s, and Le Grand Véfour seems a fitting next step.
As a listed Historic Monument, Paris Society has been hands-off when it comes to the design – but that’s part of the everlasting appeal. In a digital world, the neoclassical interiors are arguably more impressive than ever, replete with gilded mirrors, chandeliers, Italian-style frescoes, stained glass panels, and silverware that looks like it could have been nicked from Versailles.
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Dining here is like stepping back in time, and since my phone lacked signal, I found myself hypnotized by the staff’s artful choreography in the mirrored ceiling – using the same reflective feature to spy on neighboring tables before making my order.
That said, there have been a few updates. Red banquettes now take on a royal blue color, which I’m told “nods to the nobility,” while a new salon upstairs has been designed by Cordélia de Castellane, the Artistic Director of Dior Maison.
More significant is the restaurant’s expansion beyond its 18th century walls into the arcade, with a terrace seating up to 150 guests. The move is a smart and overdue one, certain to attract a new set of diners – those less fussed with grandeur and more in tune with Parisian pedestrian buzz.
When it comes to the menu, Doucet continues to champion refined French classics – think duck foie gras and smoked eel, roasted veal sweetbread, lamb leg carved tableside, and extravagant desserts including a Grand Marnier frozen soufflé.
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Seafood also gets its moment to shine – a generous sea bream ceviche starter balances citrus acidity with creamy coconut milk, while the roasted sea bass main is beautifully delicate yet textured with crispy skin. Diners are encouraged to soak up any remains with a crusty warm loaf – or simply lather it in French salted butter.
The wine list is just as hefty as before – with endless champagnes and a heavy dose of Burgundy, plus the promise of lesser-known names courtesy of new sommeliers.
Le Grand Véfour’s grandeur and price-point will ensure the return of high society guests, but visit on a weekday and you’ll witness a rather mixed crowd – from well-dressed families and friends, to business rendez-vous and one solitary diner. Time stands still here, making it a rather fitting destination for the long lunch à la Française.
