Know it or not, New York City’s buzziest restaurants pretty much all fall under the umbrella of a select number of genius hospitality groups – among this select number is Quality Branded, which has recently added to its number (Zou Zou’s, Don Angie, Quality Bistro and Smith & Wollensky et al) with the opening of Twin Tails in Midtown.
Opened in the later weeks of October, just as the city began to hunker down into its fall coziness, Twin Tails has stormed onto the scene, bringing with it the big, bold flavors of Southeast Asian cuisine.
While food is naturally the driving force behind why we go out for dinner, those smart souls at Quality Branded know the modern diner is after more than just a good plate of grub and to that end has employed one of the city’s – nay the world’s – most recommended hospitality design firm to bring Twin Tails to live. Those views across Central Park aren’t half bad either.
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Chef
Having been in the Quality Branded bubble for over two decades, where he is responsible for leading culinary development across the group, Craig Koketsu has stepped up to the plate to assume the role of chef/partner at Twin Tails.
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Supporting Koketsu in the kitchen is executive chef Chad Brown (previously of now-closed Michelin-starred Italian joint, Del Posto), while the drinks list comes courtesy of beverage director Bryan Scheider, who has the likes of Daniel, Clover Club and Bad Roman on his résumé.
Menu
The menu glances over the Pacific, primarily taking inspiration from the culinary traditions of Thailand and Vietnam, with some influence from Cambodia and Laos, too. Things kick off with a raw selection (think cured Atlantic fluke, salmon crudo with green apple and yellowfin tuna with ginger), before leading into a heartier selection of seafood-focused appetizers.
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Southeast Asian classics are aplenty throughout the menu: there’s chicken satay, prawn pad thai, fresh summer rolls and sweet sticky rice.
Desserts are intentionally playful and continue to nod toward classic Asian flavors. Choose between an ube (yam) creme caramel, Thai iced coffee affogato and a variety of souffles (including an intriguing red curry number).
The drinks program continues in the same vein, with classic cocktails given a twist: the martini is updated with a touch of lychee; the negroni gets a drizzle of tamarind.
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Interiors
Twin Tails’ classy, sultry and distinctly retro interiors were artfully designed by global firm AvroKo. Known for its larger-than-life take on hospitality projects (previous clients include Single Thread in California, 1 Hotel New York City and The Inn at Mattei’s Tavern), the AvroKo team looked to the old-school NYC restaurants of the 1980s for inspiration, and employed bold brass details, mirrored panels, and a rich gold and green color palette to create a sense of nostalgia. Amber-hued chandeliers cast an atmospheric glow, while expansive Central Park views imbue an easy sense of place.
As well as the 140-seat main dining room, there’s a secluded speakeasy-style cocktail lounge for pre- and post-dinner drinks, as well as a private dining room with space for up to 26.
Twin Tails, 10 Columbus Circle, New York, NY 10019, twintailsnyc.com
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