Once considered firmly in the realm of old fashioned, the word ‘nostalgic’ has happily crept back into the modern restaurant world, with kitsch dishes rightfully taking their place on the trendiest of menus. One of the latest to dive into the culinary archives is The Corner Store, which just opened in SoHo, New York.
The first new opening in over 13 years from the Catch Hospitality Group, The Corner Store brands itself as ‘playful’ and harks back to the old-school New York dining scene of yesteryear – both in menu and style.
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Chef
Responsible for putting together The Corner Store’s kitsch-inspired menu are Catch Hospitality Group’s culinary director Michael Vignola, who has experience under the likes of Eric Ripert at Le Bernardin, Marcus Samuelsson at Aquavit and Gabriel Kreuther at The Modern, and executive chef Paul Castro.
Responsible for the day-to-day runnings of The Corner Store’s kitchens, Castro has a four-year tenure as executive chef at Catch New York, as well as stints at hotspots like Starr Restaurants and Nobu.
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Menu
The Corner Store kicks off its ‘nostalgic’ approach from the get-go – appetizers include bite-sized pastrami sandwiches, rich bechamel spinach and cheesy pizza rolls doused in hot honey. For something a touch more sophisticated, look to the raw section for vodka-soaked oysters, shrimp cocktail or filet mignon tartare.
The entree list is impressively inclusive (plenty of pescetarian and veggie options, here), but the star of the show is the steak section. There are the devilishly unhealthy disco steak frites, with hand-cut french fries topped with skirt steak and peppercorn aioli; a prime wagyu rib, au jus and horseradish rib, served with house-baked bread; and filet mignon with truffle butter.
Desserts continue the elevated retro theme: choose between ice cream sundaes or old skool [sic] apple pie.
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Although a good cocktail program is the cornerstone of any decent restaurant opening, The Corner Store is proudly taking things up a notch. Conceived by Catch’s beverage director Lucas Robinson; Alexis Belton, previously of The Aviary; and Dev Johnson, previously of Employees Only, the list is centered around the iconic martini.
The tableside offering ranges from classics – the dirty martini, served with homemade vermouth brine, is the signature – to fun riffs, including a sour cream and onion concoction.
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Interiors
The nostalgic vibe doesn’t end with food. Imagined by the Rockwell Group (which also put its spin on Coqodaq, Wayan and Nobu) The Corner Store’s interiors hark back to vintage New York dining rooms, with a warm inviting atmosphere – ideally soon full of convivial New Yorkers.
Guests are first greeted by a green onyx and dark-wood paneled bar, backed by an antique-style mirror that has been adorned with playful illustrations of The Corner Store’s martini man character. Cheron wood floors run from the middle dining room and into the main dining room, both of which are decorated with green velvet and leather banquette-style seating, while the scattering of vintage black-and-white New York City photography keeps diners company.
Off of the dining room, there is a 50-seat enclosed glass patio that can be opened in the warmer months, decorated with custom armchairs, bistro enamel table tops and lush greenery.
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