Bushmills has revealed what it claims to be the oldest single malt whiskey in Ireland’s history. At 46 years old, the new expression – Secrets of the River Bush – pales when compared to some of the oldest Scotch whiskies but appears to have taken the title for the Emerald Isle, at least technically speaking.
Why technically? Midleton Very Rare’s Silent Distillery Collection has released several Irish whiskeys older than this Bushmills release, but all have been pot still, meaning they contain a mix of malted and unmalted barley, and other grains. They can not be classified as single malts.
The reason why Midleton (based in the Republic of Ireland) has historically produced predominantly pot still whiskey and Bushmills (Northern Ireland), single malts, is wrapped up in the island of Ireland’s long and complicated relationship with the British taxman. Suffice to say, Bushmills had good reason for staying more closely aligned to its Scottish cousins.
Consequently, the single malt whiskey produced at Bushmills lacks the spice and cereal notes that have come to define the Irish whiskey category. Instead, you get mellow, maltier (obviously) tones of Scotch. That is where the comparisons with Scotch end. When it comes to price, the new Bushmills 46 Year Old reads like a steal at $12,500 a bottle, especially considering it is limited to just 300 bottles. You can expect to pay double for a similarly-aged bottle from The Dalmore and The Macallan, both released continually in unknown quantities.
In both flavor and collectibility, you get exceptional bang for your buck. This whiskey spent all its time in a pair of Oloroso sherry casks, yielding an alluringly dark color on par with the richest mahogany. Naturally, there’s not much to say regarding Bushmills’ distillery character, but while the sherry casks have had significant influence, they have not overpowered it.
Such a large amount of time in sherry casks can usually leave the whiskey dry and brittle – full of tannins, wood notes and not much else. This Bushmills release could not be further from that. It has aged gracefully, emerging in harmony with its oaked home at a palatable 46.3% ABV.
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Speaking on the release, master blender Alex Thomas, said: “This isn’t just a smooth, rare single malt whiskey, it is real history in the making. For 46 years, we’ve patiently watched over this remarkable liquid and witnessed it transform into this rich, dark beauty, deeply authentic and full of flavor. This is Bushmills at its best.”
The whiskey is dedicated to the River Bush, the lifeblood of the distillery. While the distillery has only been in operation since 1784, historical records indicate some form of distillation happening on the site as early as 1608. Back then, the River Bush supplied the water used to make the distillate, the same as it is today. “Without the river there would be no Bushmills Irish Whiskey. The two are inextricably linked,” said Thomas.
Bushmills 46 Year Old – Tasting Notes
Nose: Sweet aromas with ripe dark fruits, including black cherry and dried apricots. Mixed in with milk chocolate and treacle before delicate wafts of oak emerge.
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Palate: A creamy texture coats the palate with dark chocolate, evolving into pure cacao nibs. Notably, there is very little spice at the front of the palate, giving subtle notes a chance to develop into an intensely rich melody of black cherries, roasted coffee beans and dried tobacco.
Finish: The spice starts to develop as the flavors become more mature – hints of cigar box and dark chocolate outlast everything else.
Score: 9/10
– 10 A unicorn: Spend whatever it takes
– 8.5–9.5 Top shelf: Impress your fellow whisky geeks
– 7–8: Great: Buy two bottles – one to drink, one to keep
– 5.5–6.5: Very good: Keep it on the shelf – a good daily drinker
– 5: Not bad: There’s better out there for the same money
– Below 5 – Disappointing
‘Secrets of the River Bush’ is bottled at 46.3% ABV and only 300 sequentially numbered bottles will be made available globally with an RRP of $12,500, bushmills.com
