The last London Whisky Show saw the great and the good of the industry come together for three days of education, tastings, and, in my case, an interesting discovery.
That discovery was Korean whisky, introduced to me by organizer and head buyer for The Whisky Exchange Trade, Dawn Davies, who confidently called it as ‘the next Japan in whisky’.
When it comes to Asia and whisky, there are four countries which immediately spring to mind: Japan, for its cult following; India for its magnitude; Taiwan for its ingenuity; and most recently China, for its buy-in by the big guns. So, when the International Wine and Spirit Competition announced that the winner of its 2025 Worldwide Whiskey Trophy was a peated single malt from South Korea, eyes turned to a quietly confident industry making small but sure waves in the world of world whisky. And at this year’s Whisky Show, the winners of that award – Ki One, for its Unicorn release – were inundated with visitors, tasting glasses aloft, eager to try the next coolest thing in the category.
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Korean whisky is a relatively new phenomenon. There are just two single malt brands, both recently launched into market – Ki One and Kimchangsoo – and rice-based whisky Hwayo Distillery. While the ground rumbles with reports of more to come, it remains very early days for South Korea’s whisky production. But those in the know have been keeping a keen eye on this emerging star in Asia’s ever-growing whisky stratosphere: “I love discovering great whisky, and when I found both Kimchangsoo and Ki One, I knew I was on to something great,” says Davies, an early adopter and champion of Korean whiskies.
While Hwayo made its mark as the first Korean whisky made from rice, the barley-made whiskies of Ki One and Kimchangsoo are making broader strides on the global scene. Perched in the Namyangju mountains just outside of Seoul, Ki One was founded in 2018 by Korean-American Bryan Do, whose CV spans brewer, news anchor and tech exec. He enlisted the help of Scottish distilling consultant Andrew Shand to bring the country its first single malt. Since then, they’ve launched peated and unpeated, a single cask, and a cask strength edition.
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Meanwhile, over in Gimpo, Kimchangsoo Distillery came to life in 2021 through the Japanese whisky-trained and Islay-inspired Kim Chang-soo, who set up self-designed stills with a determination to make peated whisky influenced by Korea’s ever-changing climate. Its first release, Whisky Gimpo, spoke volumes, and allowed the team to start building a larger facility for their next phase.
Despite only just having homegrown products, though, interest in whisky in South Korea has been skyrocketing. According to Bloomberg, in 2022 South Korea’s whisky consumption rose by 46 percent at the fastest pace of any country in the world to 14.2m liters. Scotch, Japanese, Irish, and American whisky brands ruled supreme and, in turn, have since harnessed their popularity with more presence in this captivated market.
While soju brand Jinro remains the most popular (it’s the biggest selling spirit in the world), a change in consumer habits as well as a leaning towards more premium and luxury drinks are driving more Gen Z and millennials to whisky. In the first two months of 2023, it was one of the spirits that outsold soju, according to Korean retailer EMart. Soju distilleries are also turning their hand to whiskymaking – Hwayo itself starting life as a premium soju producer before branching out.
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Accolades aside, the excitement around and caliber of the whiskies already coming out of Korea are showing that it can punch above its status, according to Davies: “Asian whisky as a whole has really loyal fans and while I believe that Korea is gaining traction from this, first and foremost it is the quality of the liquid.”
Indeed, certain aspects of the current distilleries’ production are especially exciting when we think of its impact on flavor. Just the simple fact that they are making whisky in Korea results in a very distinctive set of styles. The climate has a huge impact on the aging process, with temperatures spanning –5 degrees Fahrenheit in winter and 105 degrees Fahrenheit in the summer, giving both concentration and flavor but also a complementary elegance. At Kimchangsoo, Kim is working with Korean barley and wood to bring a unique and localized element to its whiskymaking. At Ki One, Shand is experimenting with incredibly long fermentations and beer malts to push the limits of flavor. Casks span new American oak, ex-bourbon, oloroso sherry, and more.
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Clearly, these methods are paying dividends as the brands gain global awareness. It’s safe to say that there is plenty to get excited about when it comes to the future of Korean whisky. Davies is sure that Korea’s time in the sun will only make the entire region step up to the plate: “They say a rising tide lifts all boats. I think that Japan has dominated the market for a long time and the more players that enter the market with quality products, the better the overall category gets as everyone ups their game. All Asian whiskies are different, from Taiwan, to China and Japan, however we do think of Asia as a region so if someone does well and puts a spotlight on that region, it pulls everyone with it.”
Two Korean whiskies to try
Ki One Unicorn Edition Korean Single Malt
The whisky that made them famous, this homage to Scotch whisky is a rich, earthy and savory single malt that beautifully balances peat with softer tones of slightly singed caramel, vanilla, stewed red fruits, citrus peel, and a hint of minerality. A seriously accomplished whisky at a very reasonable price.
Kimchangsoo Whisky Gimpo Korean Single Malt
Oloroso, PX, Bordeaux wine and quarter casks make this peated single malt from Kimchangsoo really sing both in terms of flavor and texture. Think sweet smoke but also seaweed, some barbecue meatiness and the grip of dark chocolate, too. Sherried fruit notes complement and lend it its moreishness.
