Much like fashion, aesthetic treatments move in cycles. Where once the goal was to freeze away any sign of aging, the face of today prioritizes something more subtle – a look that is well-rested, lightly lifted, and, crucially, still expressive.
Practitioners are seeing the shift firsthand. Dr. Brendan Khong, an aesthetic doctor based in London’s Pall Mall, notes a change in what clients are asking for. “There is a move away from overfilling the face with dermal filler and a stronger interest in skin longevity, biohacking, and skin quality.”
Rather than relying on quick fixes, there is a growing understanding that long-term skin health underpins a natural, youthful appearance. London clinic Vico Skin, founded by Jasmina Vico, whose clients include actresses Margot Robbie, Angelina Jolie, and Jodie Comer, echoes this ethos. “Our approach is always focusing on the health of the skin. Natural results come from restraint, precision, and a skin-first approach,” the team explains.
That approach begins with a consultation. Rather than rushing into treatment, practitioners are building long-term protocols tailored to the individual. “A good practitioner will take the time to understand your skin, lifestyle, and goals, then create a plan that addresses concerns like laxity, dullness, fine lines, and hydration,” says the team.
It also requires trust. “There are patients who request treatments that I don’t feel are beneficial,” says Dr Khong. “In those cases, I advise against them.” Experts emphasize that the aim in the modern era is not to change how someone looks, but to restore what has gradually been lost.
For Dr Ana Mansouri, founder of Dr Ana The Skin Clinic, that comes down to collagen. “We lose at least 1 percent of collagen every year,” she explains. “That’s what leads to reduced elasticity and the downward pull we start to see in the face.” Her approach focuses on rebuilding that structure: “It’s about restoring your youth rather than augmenting it. You achieve a well-rested appearance that still feels entirely your own.”
See more: The $7k Beauty Tool Engineered To Switch Your Skin Into Youth Mode
What to avoid
If the goal is to remain expressive, restraint matters just as much as treatment choice. Overuse of anti-wrinkle injections, particularly in the upper face, can quickly lead to a frozen appearance. “We like a baby Botox approach,” says Dr. Ana. “Heavier doses can look unnatural.”
Similarly, excessive filler can distort proportions. “Overfilling is not a natural way of approaching aging,” she explains. While small, carefully placed amounts can still play a role, the emphasis is firmly on a lighter touch.
Subtle tweakments experts recommend
Across clinics, approaches to aging are becoming more layered and regenerative. Protocols now often combine treatments such as polynucleotides, PRP, collagen-stimulating lasers, microneedling, gentle chemical peels, lymphatic drainage, and light-based therapies. These treatments work with the skin’s biology rather than overriding it, supporting repair, boosting collagen, and improving how the skin functions over time. Here’s ones that the experts we tapped up recommend.
See more: Why Is Hollywood Reportedly Hooked on Peptide Injections?
Sculptra and Sofwave
For Dr Ana, regenerative treatments are key. “I would always choose treatments that stimulate your own tissues and your own natural collagen,” she says.
One of her go-to combinations pairs Sculptra with Sofwave. Sculptra, a poly-L-lactic acid injectable, works beneath the surface to stimulate collagen production over time. Rather than adding volume, it gradually improves skin density and firmness, with results developing over several months.
Sofwave complements this with ultrasound technology that gently heats the skin at precise depths, triggering further collagen production. “These two treatments work beautifully together,” she says. “They allow us to target the full face, including the brow, eye area, and jawline, creating lift and improving definition without altering natural movement.”
MCT PRP and Exosomes
For those seeking a more regenerative “nothing added” approach, MCT-enhanced PRP is gaining traction. The treatment begins by isolating platelet-rich plasma from the patient’s own blood, before amplifying it using light and temperature.
This process increases growth factors and can stimulate the release of autologous exosomes, supporting collagen production, repair, and overall skin quality. It’s particularly appealing to those who want to avoid introducing synthetic substances.
Julaine (PLLA biostimulator)
Julaine is another poly-L-lactic acid treatment designed to improve skin density rather than add volume. It helps address laxity in the lower face, soften nasolabial lines, and smooth crepey texture. For results lasting up to a year, Dr. Khong recommends “Three courses of treatment, performed four to six weeks apart.”
Rexonage (QMR technology)
For a non-invasive option, Rexonage uses quantum molecular resonance to reduce inflammation while stimulating dermal activity. It’s used across the face and body – including delicate areas such as under the eyes – to improve elasticity and firmness, “without heat, needles, or downtime.”
Aerolase Reverse
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Laser treatments remain central, but newer approaches are more targeted. Aerolase Reverse combines deep dermal laser work with resurfacing technology to address pigmentation, fine lines, and overall texture, while stimulating collagen at multiple levels. “The first part of the treatment is the Aerolase Neo Elite laser – a deep dermal laser to target inflammation, treat pigmentation, and stimulate collagen,” explains Dr. Khong. “The second part of the treatment is the Aerolase Era Elite laser – a resurfacing laser which smooths fine lines and wrinkles.” The result is clearer, more even-toned skin with a noticeable boost in luminosity.
