BY NATE BORGELT
While the likes of Urwerk and MB&F continue to wow the watch world with über-modern creations, history buffs and military men will swoon for these sleek pieces that reference horology’s pragmatic past while incorporating impressive technical innovations.
PANERAI PAM 373
History buffs and military men will swoon for these sleek pieces
Panerai watches were originally developed as utilitarian navy and diving watches. With the Panerai PAM 373, the illustrious company honors this heritage, encasing it in a luxurious package fit for the modern watch aficionado. The sculpted Radiomir case, made of platinum, is a massive 47 mm and has a sapphire crystal exhibition back through which to view the Caliber P 3000 three-day movement. The chocolate-colored dial is a classic “sandwich” dial with a lower layer for the signature and luminous dots. Only 300 of the PAM 373 will be made ($48,000).
Veruska Molitor at Officine Panerai in New York
BREGUET TYPE XX AÉRONAVALE
Commissioned by the French Air Force in the 1950s, the Breguet Type XX is a staple of sport watches the world over. Breguet introduced a modern version of the Type XX in 1995, and 2010 brought with it the Type XX Aéronavale 100th anniversary limited edition in celebration of a century of French naval aviation.
Limited to 1,000 units, the watch features a black lacquered rotating bezel with raised numerals like its military predecessor of the 1950s. The 39mm watch contains the caliber 581 automatic chronograph with flyback function, allowing the user to time short intervals with a single push of a button ($10,200).
Nicola Phelps at Breguet in New York
IWC REFERENCE IW325405
IWC’s Reference IW325405 is a special platinum edition of the manufacture’s historic pilot’s watch, limited to just 500 pieces and part of IWC’s Heritage line. The wristwatch, featuring the Caliber 98300, evokes the original Jones Caliber 86, created by Florentine Ariosto Jones in 1868, and is visible through the sapphire case back.
The large, 44mm platinum case has a rotating reeded bezel with an inner luminescent arrow to note the start of an event. The original model, introduced in 1936, is honored through this striking interpretation with classic looks and modern technology ($41,600).
Noreen McDonald at IWC in New York