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July 17, 2013updated Aug 27, 2013

Only Watch 2013: Christophe Claret

By Chris Boyle

X-TREM-1 Pinball 2 resized This September 28, Monaco will play host to the fifth edition of the ‘Only Watch’ charity watch auction benefiting research for Duchenne muscular dystrophy.

Recognized as the world’s first ever charity watch auction, Only Watch is conducted by the watch auctioneers, Antiquorum.

33 of the world’s leading watch manufactures are donating a unique timepiece specially created for the occasion, one of which will feature on Elite’s website every day leading up to this not-to-be-missed auction.

The proceeds from the sales will be donated to the Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy, promoter of Only Watch with Antiquorum Auctioneers and the Monaco Yacht Show, to help finance research for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, a degenerative neuromuscular disease affecting 1 in 3,500 boys and therefore 250,000 children, adolescents, and young adults around the world.

From September 6, an international exhibit of the Only Watch collection of timepieces for men and women will also travel the world – Singapore, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Beijing, New York – and will be concluded by a presentation during the Monaco Yacht Show (September 25 to 28).

The Only Watch auction itself takes place on September 28 at 11am (GMT+1) in the ‘Salle Belle Epoque’ of the Hôtel Hermitage.

ONLY WATCH 2013 SPOTLIGHT: Christophe Claret  

A flying tourbillon inclined at a 30° angle, mounted on a three-dimensional curvex titanium mainplate, equipped with a retrograde hours and minutes display system that is radically different from existing watchmaking conventions.

Taking its inspiration from pinball machines, Pinball is a highly distinctive interpretation of Christophe Claret’s X-TREM-1 with its tiny metal balls indicating hours and minutes through new, grilled sapphire tubes allowing the time display to be in direct contact with the exterior.

The Le Locle-based watchmaker has also reworked the appearance of the movement so it resembles the inside of a pinball machine: Bumpers, slingshots and balls are all evoked inside the highly visible mechanism. Even the cool blue and bright orange colours reflect the Pinball concept.

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Description of X-TREM-1 Pinball by Christophe Claret

A flying tourbillon watch equipped with a retrograde hours and minutes display system that is radically different from existing watchmaking conventions. Two tiny metal balls, isolated within grilled sapphire tubes on the left and right sides of the caseband magically move with no mechanical connection thanks to magnetic fields. 

Case: rectangular with curvex profile, 40.80 x 56.80 x 15 mm, hours and minutes are indicated by two 4mm-diameter hollowed spheres weighing 0.100 grams that move past sapphire scales marked with thin orange Super-LumiNova graduations beneath the sapphir, 3 ATM or 30 m, polished white gold/blue anodised Perunal-type aluminium.

Movement: caliber FLY11, mechanical, hand-wound, 26.6 x 46.4 x 11.94 mm, 419 parts, 64 jewels, power reserve: 50+ hours, 3 Hz (21,600 vph), flying tourbillon inclined at 30° supported by a double ceramic bearing, with cone-shaped pinion transmission and rotates once every 60 seconds, Swiss lever escapement, dual barrels: one for the movement gear train and one for the time indications, the tourbillon movement and the time indication gear trains each have their own independent energy supply to optimise the power reserve. Pusher: fast time adjustment is via an integrated pusher on the middle at 12 o’clock.

Bows: winding and time-setting via rotating “bows” that fold under caseback.

Strap: blue alligator, orange stitching, equipped with an innovative two-screw fastening system that facilitates strap change and avoids damaging the case.

Requested Price: CHF 290’000 – 360’000

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