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April 14, 2009updated Jul 08, 2015


By Pardhasaradhi Gonuguntla

NanisThe colossal stands have been struck at this year’s BaselWorld, the annual showcase of some of the world’s best fine jewelry. But before the hottest new designs hit stores, here’s a preview of what to look for from top brands.

Nanis explores new territory while staying true to its heritage of elegant, versatile, easy-to-wear jewelry. One new collection, Nanis Anima, riffs on the classic oval that is the brand’s signature by repeating the shape in a series of end-to-end ebony links ranging in size from mini to supersized. And with the launch of Scandal, Nanis plays with the scale and size of its oval motif. This time, the shape takes on wider dimensions, twists or intersects with others in regal gold necklaces, rings and earrings, all bearing an etched gold surface.

Always one to buck the prevailing notion that pearls should be applied in the most conventional ways, Autore’s new Fire & Ice collection ensures that it keeps the mantle as the pearl brand that pushes the envelope more than any other. Paired with materials like sliced diamonds that mimic snow crystals or intense, fire-red spinels, the lineup of one-of-a-kind Tahitian and South Sea pearl jewelry captures the contrasting inspirations of ice and steamy volcanic heat. Touches like engravings hidden within a ring’s band or earrings with removable drops add to the whimsy of these unique pieces.

Carla Amorim
Carla Amorim counts far-ranging references that include modernist architecture and her native Brazil’s lush natural landscape as inspirations for her contemporary jewelry collection. Chiefly known for working in 18K gold, Amorim has upped the colored gemstone quotient in her newest offerings. In the Aquatic collection the surface of pink quartz cabochon stones is dotted with gold blossoms. And to follow-up on the success of the Cuba Libre collection using black onyx covered in spiky gold and diamond projections, another variation has been launched in white agate. One suggested moniker for the yet-to-be-named collection: White Russian!

Carrera y Carrera
Cuba’s the part of the Spanish diaspora that is the source of one of Carrera y Carrera’s key new collections. Displaying the brand’s key signatures—dynamic, sculpted reliefs in 18K gold, a mix of matte and polished surfaces and voluptuous, curving lines—pieces from the Azucar collection feature 18K gold gardenia petals combined with gemstones like diamonds, pearls or onyx. Other variations on the theme have flowers coated in ruby-colored enamel and rock crystal. The jewelry has a strong, feminine quality that is singularly Carrera y Carrera.

Maintaining a focus on fashion-centric gold jewelry that wears with ease, Chimento’s new collections capture the brand’s chic, accessible essence. The Romantica collection has a cheerful look that belies the technical skill required to create it. A heart shaped inlay within onyx, gold or white agate settings houses pavé-set black or white diamonds. The looping lines of the hearts in the collection’s rings, pendants and earrings makes them perfectly lighthearted tokens of affection.

Hewing to the Art Nouveau and Art Deco designs created by Lluís Masriera beginning more than a century ago, the pieces from Masriera’s 2009 collection display the traits that make the brand a touchstone for intricate design and exceptional quality that’s hard to find in contemporary jewelry. Translucent enamelwork, fanciful motifs and richly textured gold bring to life the age when the jewelry was first designed. A standout reissue from the original archive is the Flower of Ceres bangle. First created in 1903, the bracelet features sapphires and diamonds within finely enameled flowers.

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