Rome is famous for what lies behind closed doors. I’m thinking of fortuitous glimpses I’ve had into secret rooms at the Vatican (one that held the shoes of former popes and chalices dating back centuries) and the time the keeper of the Jewish Catacombs, situated on the Appian Way, used an ancient key to unlock access for me into underground stone chambers few people ever have the chance to see.
I refer, as well, to the kind of sights you’ll see on an early morning power walk with Isabella Calidonna, an athletic historian who founded ArcheoRunning, a unique arts-meets-motion guide service. She’ll point out unexpected treasures within archways or above buildings when you take to the streets with her at dawn. Of course, there’s that keyhole in the Garden of Oranges (Giardino degli Aranci), once an orchard tended by Dominican monks. Through it, you’ll see St Peter’s Basilica in the distance. Not the least, the fresco-adorned Galleria Sciarra that stands in the middle of an office building a few steps from the Trevi Fountain proves my point, awash with Art Nouveau flourishes.
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That said, when I walk past the unassuming entrance to the Singer Palace Hotel without noticing the small placard that bears its name, I think I’m lost. I pull my suitcase along the sidewalk again and again without seeing the entrance. Just as I turn to take the few steps it will take me to reach the ever-thronged Via del Corso, a lovely bellman, nattily attired, rushes out a door. “Are you looking for Singer Palace?” he asks, already relieving me of my bags.
One step in and Rome’s hidden-world phenomenon strikes once again. Singer Palace Hotel reigns as the king of jewel box spaces. Hidden, like a speakeasy, giving it a kind of priceless, treasure-trove cachet, this hotel redefines old-school Roman Baroque. This is Rome with modern tweaks, a sense of humor and a reminder to stop and cherish the details.
Stay
Family-owned Singer Palace Hotel’s lobby ensnares me at first glance. Intimate, it’s a petite extravaganza with a Picasso-in-his-abstract-phase reception desk, vintage sewing machines set up like assemblage art, desk clerks donning large flower-shaped brooches and a downright glamorous, floating, white marble staircase. This mood continues throughout the hotel where absolutely design-forward rooms both draw from and celebrate the imagination. Festive and stunning, they summon a residential feel. There are 29 rooms and suites tucked into various nooks upstairs, each uniquely configured to fit into the building’s stately Art Deco bones.
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Design-centric spaces throughout summon Roman gravitas, but with a fresh outlook. Paying homage to history – the building once served as the Roman headquarters for the Singer Corporation (those behind the famous sewing machine), the palazzo exudes contemporary flair. It veritably radiates personality. A glass elevator connects the floors, further underscoring the sense that this might be a chic apartment building – even a personal palazzo – and not a hotel at all. It’s smart and posh, but utterly welcoming.
Top Suite: Singer Signature Suites
Bijoux suites personify the fancy homeyness at Singer Palace, which earned a Michelin Key this year. The Terrace Suite, for example, features a small balcony that faces a courtyard, ideal for afternoon tea or an evening cocktail; while the larger Singer Signature Suites occupy corners on various floors.
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Mine was cleverly elegant with showpiece artwork and sybaritic bathrooms (with Ortigia Sicilian Black Amber products) sheathed in red-veined Cala Rosso marble. As in the rest of the hotel, details rule in all guest rooms, including eye-catching throw pillows, silk wallpaper, cashmere throws, hand-chosen books, brightly-hued velvet chairs, graceful orchids in sculptural vases, mirrored cabinets and delicate boxes aplenty.
Dine
As popular with locals as guests, the palazzo’s crowd-pleasing rooftop becomes vivified at night. The lights of Rome twinkle from every direction. Jim’s Bar boasts classic libations from the 1930s, tweaked with contemporary elan by award-winning mixologists as well as luscious cicchetti – think: fried zucchini flowers and suppli. Order the Sbagliato with bitter Campari for an apertivo instead of your usual Aperol Spritz. You won’t be sorry.
One floor below, Le Terrazze, Singer’s all-day restaurant, opens to equally panoramic views. For breakfast, it offers guests a range of a la carte specialties including delectable pastries, egg dishes, local cheese and charcuterie. The lunch and dinner menu by Chef Alessandro Fiacco re-thinks modern Roman classics. Choose veal fillet saltimbocca Romana style with artichoke – one of the chef’s specialties. But, first, dig into porcini mushroom and black truffle risotto or tonarelli cacio e pepe – the ultimate starters. An expansive and locally-leaning wine list complements any meal.
Explore
Being both boutique and very urbane, not to mention with a location minutes from Rome’s most famous sights, Singer Palace doesn’t waste space with a gym or spa. Believe me: you’ll get your workout on the streets and be pampered (at least mentally) in the various museums and shops. Those with a penchant for an early morning run or power walk can join the aforementioned ArcheoRunning tour, one of the palazzo’s noteworthy and unique partners.
Also exclusively offered are cooking classes, a visit to the Sistine Chapel after or before hours with its official holder of the key to unlock or lock the door, a fascinating walk through a museum with a famous art historian, horseback riding along the Appia Antica, a chance to get behind the wheel of a vintage sports car for a road trip and/or gladiator school – among many other novel ways to discover Rome.
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