Just a short drive – or an even shorter helicopter ride – from the hustle and bustle of London, the Cotswolds is one of those rare destinations that surpasses even the most romanticized depictions in film. A living embodiment of the ultimate English daydream, it’s a countryside fantasy that has long lured the rich and famous (Jeremy Clarkson, Gary Barlow, Kate Moss) away from city life.
For my own The Holiday-inspired November escape, I hopped on the hour-long train from London’s Paddington to Swindon, followed by a thirty-minute taxi ride that whisked me into the heart of Gloucestershire. Perhaps one of London’s dreariest months (dark, cold days accompanied by rain, rain, and more rain), November in the Cotswolds is, of course, effortlessly charming and I enjoyed a chilly weekend caught between a whimsical auburn autumn and a cozily festive winter.
In fact, each season in the Cotswolds seems to embody the romanticized English coming-and-going of seasons. Spring brings fluffy, tottering lambs and meadows filled with early-blooming wildflowers accompanied by sweet birdsong. Summer is equally dreamlike, with lazy afternoons under green willows and local ales enjoyed in sunny pub gardens. Sitting by crackling log fires with hearty roasts or strolling among the apple trees, it’s clear why Cotswolds countryside hotels stay booked year-round.
Hollywood-perfect and endlessly enchanting, no visit – however fleeting – is complete without a wistful Google search for “houses for sale in the Cotswolds” before you’ve even left. I’ve indulged in the fantasy countless times, convinced I could trade in city life for the bliss of crisp morning walks through Cotswold-stone villages.
Thyme, a boutique hotel tucked into a postcard-perfect Gloucestershire village, epitomizes my far-fetched daydreams. A countryside fantasy wrapped in effortless luxury, the hotel is perfectly tailored for city folk like me who crave the charm without the chaos.
Over two days, I experienced every indulgent facet of my countryside dreams: breakfasts of poached local pears and creamy yogurt in a converted ox barn, fresh mint tea and card games in the sheep-themed snug, and the delightful surprise of fuzzy hot water bottles warming my bed after dinner. Every detail was so perfectly curated that I was spellbound into believing I was, for a moment, living the Cotswolds life – albeit with an extremely discreet army of staff ensuring I stayed warm, well-fed, and always had a Negroni in hand.
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The rustic authenticity and effortlessly livable atmosphere of Thyme can be traced back to its origins. Once a collection of derelict farm buildings adjacent to her home at Southrop Manor, founder and creative director Caryn Hibbert has, since 2007, meticulously and sustainably transformed the space into the “village within a village” that guests can enjoy today.
Still proudly family-owned and operated, Caryn remains a warm and enthusiastic presence at the hotel, personally welcoming guests with genuine hospitality. Her daughter Milly serves as general manager, while her eldest son Charlie takes the reins as culinary lead, ensuring that every aspect of Thyme reflects the family’s passion, dedication and connection to the local area.
Although feeling deeply committed to my faux-countryside lifestyle, when it was time to leave, I was grateful for the luxury of not having to worry about fixing a boiler or patching the roof of my imaginary cottage. Instead of wistfully Googling “houses for sale” on the journey home, I found myself plotting my next stay at Thyme. After all, why saddle myself with the endless drama of countryside ownership—drafty windows, rickety plumbing, and the realities of rural upkeep—when I can return to Thyme and have the magic of Cotswolds living, perfectly prepared in five-star luxury, sat waiting for me?
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Stay
The hotel is spread across a complex of traditional cottages, manor houses and barns, with 31 rooms in total, including five garden rooms with private outdoor spaces, all connected by perfectly hedged gravel paths. From self-proclaimed “teeny cozy bedrooms” to exclusive hire of the estate’s 31 rooms, there’s a multitude of options catering to both quiet couples’ weekends and grand celebratory escapes for large groups.
Each space is a unique tribute to countryside living, decorated with faux-rustic furnishings and botanical prints and wallpaper designed by Caryn herself. While whimsically beautiful, it’s the intimate touches that truly elevate the experience: the deconstructed bedside nightcap and pots of scented salts waiting by the freestanding bath made me giddy with five-star luxury.
If exclusive hire feels like a step too far, and you may not be looking to bring 60 guests on your country escape but still desire secluded luxury, book The Farmhouse. This 17th-century Cotswolds stone house boasts eight ensuite double bedrooms and is surrounded by a beautiful walled garden designed by six-time Chelsea Flower Show gold medalist Bunny Guinness.
Inside, the entertainment spaces are adorned with sumptuous velvets and antique furnishings, complemented by quirky, contemporary detailing that adds a modern edge. The richly decorated drawing room, complete with wood-burning stoves, is ideal for a lazy weekend retreat, while the state-of-the-art kitchen can be booked for private dining experiences.
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Eat
Breakfast and dinner are served in the Ox Barn restaurant. Towering restored ceilings with lofty wooden beams create a sense of grandeur, while warm lighting and the open kitchen lend a cozy, modern atmosphere. At one end of the barn, a stone fireplace and snug sofas offer a welcoming space for pre-dinner drinks.
Upon entry, a large blackboard displays an astounding array of on-site-grown fruits and vegetables that inform the à la carte menu. The offerings reflect a farm-based and plant-inspired ethos, driven by the seasons and the estate’s gardens.
For dinner, small starter plates include stracciatella paired with winter tomatoes and shallots, or crispy potato pavé topped with taramasalata, cucumber, and fennel – a divine pairing I’ve tried (unsuccessfully) to recreate at home.
Main courses span a select offering of vegetarian, fish, and meat options, all inspired by modern British dining. Cod with leeks was elevated with butter beans and anchovy, while the ribeye was paired with decadent truffle butter. Classic British sides like leafy buttered greens and crispy beef-fat potatoes give a hearty feel to the dinner.
Drinks can be enjoyed during dinner or at the Baa—a sheep-themed (you guessed it) bar that transforms into a snug and informal lounge during the day. Serving classic cocktails with clever homegrown twists, we sipped on puntarelle margaritas. For the herbally uninitiated (like me), the menu thoughtfully explains the dandelion-shaped chicory’s origins and digestive benefits.
A visit to Thyme is incomplete without stopping by the hotel’s village pub, The Swan. Just a short stroll from the property, this charming venue is defined by low ceilings, roaring fires and mismatched wooden furniture, making it the picture-perfect setting for a drawn-out Sunday roast.
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Relax
In keeping with the accommodation’s aesthetic, the spa facilities are housed across traditional cottage and greenhouse buildings, blending a cozy, cottage-core vibe with indulgent treatments. An idyllic heated outdoor pool is open until mid-November, where guests can relax with poolside snacks and cocktails.
In partnership with Aurelia Probiotic Skincare, Thyme has developed bespoke therapies using its signature Bertioli Beauty products. My Botanical Bothy signature ritual combined holistic mindfulness and pressure-point massage, with my therapist focusing on unlocking relaxation through diaphragmatic breathing and Bertioli breathing balm. Winding down afterward was equally heavenly, as I lay on a lounger by the crackling fire in the spa’s Meadow Cottage with a cup of freshly brewed herbal tea.
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Explore
For those eager to explore the Cotswolds, the hotel reception provides hand-drawn maps of scenic walks through the Leach Valley, complete with pub stops along the way. And if you’ve forgotten your rain boots, don’t worry – there’s a collection of wellies waiting in the boot room.
For further jaunts, nearby villages such as Bibury, Bourton-on-the-Water or Broadway offer quintessential British charm. However, if you’re like me and simply want to live out your lazy countryside fantasy, a gentle stroll around Thyme’s 150 acres is all you need. Wave to the resident black Welsh mountain sheep before heading back to the Baa, where afternoon tea easily transitions into vanilla espresso martinis over a cozy game of backgammon.
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