By Tanya Dukes
Loro Piana: Upping the ante on its well-established luxury fashion credentials, Loro Piana is launching its first made-to-order offerings for fall. And the brand isn’t being timid about entering the category—it will be offering customizable handbags, shoes, suits and sweaters. The sheer quantity of options is dizzying—1,500 shirt fabrics says it all. Suffice it to say, Loro Piana will have your number.
Jil Sander: Under Raf Simons Jil Sander has become again the destination for dramatic minimalism. Working with rigorously constructed angles and curves that cocooned and framed the body, Simons reworked a minimalist silhouette while still giving Jil Sander loyalists classic pieces of superb quality. The gimmickless palette of white, black, camel and grey with touches of brights brought a bracing bit of lightness to the season.
Bottega Veneta: Tomas Maier’s self-assured guidance keeps Bottega Veneta’s focus on hype-free luxury. The opening looks of the fall show were super simple slips of ivory and black–a slash here, a drape there—that brought the focus entirely to the simple, seductive power of the best materials money can buy. Modern, romantic, corseted gowns with flows of pleats were some of the season’s show stoppers.
Jimmy Choo: The 1980s are alive and well and living at Jimmy Choo. Day-glo colors, studs, animal prints, mylar and mesh sprang up as far as the eye could see on super spiky pumps, pointy flats and over-the-knee boots that were reminiscent of rock glamazons like Pat Benatar and Debbie Harry.
Blumarine: With a backdrop of designer Anna Molinari’s visage replicated in Kool-Aid colored, Andy Warholian style, the audience had a clue of what was in store at Blumarine. Unabashedly upbeat flower patterns, leopard prints and shocking pinks, yellows and blues splashed on lean knitwear (hello again, leggings and sweater dresses) and motorcycle jacket had a brash, recession-defiant sense of humor.
Agnona: White Cashmere, a new subset of ready-to-wear and knitwear from Agnona is the brand’s big news of fall. The garments from the collection all use the ultra-soft, rare fiber that serves as a pure base for dyes and results in color with rich clarity. Comfy-chic pieces included refined sheath dresses and a cashmere wrap with leather fringe.