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January 28, 2010updated Feb 11, 2013

EXCLUSIVE REPORT: Garavelli, Roberto Coin, Casato, Stefan Hafner, Nanis, Bicego, Fope Headline Spectacular Jewelry At VicenzaOro

By Pardhasaradhi Gonuguntla

Io SiRoberto CoinStefan HafnerCasatoby Tanya Dukes, Style Editor, Elite Traveler, the private jet lifestyle magazine…

Vicenza, Italy — The Italian hamlet of Vicenza abandons its ordinarily retiring pace three times a year in favor of traffic jams and booked-to-capacity hotel occupancy. That’s because it’s the epicenter of Italy’s jewelry industry and host to one of the world’s most important jewelry shows, VicenzaOro. The just-finished January edition—biggest of them all—is where leading Italian brands test the waters with some of their new designs and reformulated classics that consumers will see in stores months from now. Be sure to anticipate the following highlights from favorite names:

Marco Bicego’s range of jewelry has long featured his signature engraved 18K gold, either on its own or accompanied by gemstones in tropical color. Branching out beyond the everyday luxury that the brand has typically embraced, it’s also creating high-ticket, one-of-a-kind pieces with special gemstones. A standout of the new design direction is a pair of chandelier earrings with rough multicolored sapphires framed by the brand’s unmistakable gold.

Nanis, another maker of glamorous jewelry that fits seamlessly into a daily wardrobe, has reinvigorated bestselling collections with fresh, new designs. Heart motifs that are the cornerstone of the popular Q-ori line now come emblazoned with pavé-set sapphires in a spectrum of color from pink to green to yellow or a graphic black and white combination. The oval link that marks the brand’s most recognizable collection, Olga, has been made to interlock in pairs. And designer Laura Bicego knew the new sterling silver version of her sculptural Scandal collection would be a hit when buyers would try to separate her from the prototypes she would wear to test the first models.

Prestige pearl jewelry brand Utopia just launched Bolero. Characterized by delicately curvaceous lines in 18-karat gold and accented with cultured pearls, the collection now consists of drop earrings in a range of sizes from large to petite and sautoir necklaces with open, oblong stations, but in a few months a complete line will be unveiled.

Garavelli is a nearly century-old brand that’s gotten plenty of recent press. The company was the source of a diamond brooch just given to the First Lady for Christmas by President Obama. Fresh from that coup, Garavelli’s latest showed renewed across-the-board mastery of everything from high jewelry to chunky, masculine pieces. A one-off diamond necklace in major carat weight touched on its classical side, while a series of substantial bracelets with links in rubber and 18-karat gold demonstrated a contemporary touch. The latter is designed with men in mind but style-forward women will surely wear them, too. Alert Mrs. O.

Fope also chose to turn its attention to men with its newest collection. Its Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde collection features super-shiny, textured white gold touched with black sapphires and white diamonds. The collection’s contrast is inspired by the dual nature of its namesake character and will appeal to customers with just as divergent styles.

Powerhouse Roberto Coin never fails to invent must-have baubles at every opportunity. The runaway success of last year’s CapriPlus launch, with its trademark cutaway detail, made it a necessity to create new variations on the theme. Most exciting are thin bangles that wear well singly or stacked up the arm. A naughty new favorite promises to be the Temptation line. It features a smirking devil in peach gold and sapphires or rubies that conceals a diamond-studded heart behind its back.

Fantasy and color make Stefan Hafner jewelry instantly recognizable and put the brand’s designs in a class all their own. Extravagant rings in fanciful color combinations and elaborate shapes are the foundation of its repertoire. In the latest collection, Cherie, a blossom composed of marquise- and pear-cut stones rests in a nook atop a fully pavé-set ring. The effect is romantic and modern, just as its steadfast customers have come to expect.

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Casato continues its mastery of wearable pieces that feature loads of uplifting color. A triad of new collections dubbed Vive La Vive, Sa’ara, and Fleur du Desert all feature gem-laden designs in brilliant diamonds and semi-precious stones. Their shared palette of amethyst, and smoky topaz vivid quartz varieties makes it easy to wear the collections together.


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