Every June, menswear enthusiasts make their way to Florence for Pitti Uomo, kicking off a month of fashion trade shows, catwalks, and parties across Europe. Now in its 110th edition, 730 brands from around the world have set up stalls to showcase their spring/summer 2027 collections to the obliging guests.
As the first stop in the fashion week calendar, Pitti is usually met with some excitement; attendees aren’t yet worn out from weeks of shows, and unlike the experience of sitting front row, they have the chance to talk with the team and feel the garments firsthand. Some see it as an energizer that fuels the month ahead, like a shot of espresso that kickstarts your day.
That said, what was found inside the Fortezza da Basso this season hardly did much to spark excitement. Brands instead were recycling failsafes rather than designing innovatively. No particularly new or interesting trends were spotted on catwalks. As noted in a speech by Pitti Immagine CEO, Ivano Cauli, ahead of the trade show, the menswear market declined 1.7 percent to €9.38bn from 2024 to 2025, and fashion notoriously leans more commercial during times of economic strife. So is this a reflection of the season to come? We’ll have to wait and see.
Still, the three-day affair was not all doom and gloom – as a few moments have come out of it…
Highlights from Pitti Uomo 2026
Women won at street style
Pitti guests are often papped during the three-day event, as it has become renowned for being the epicenter of menswear street style. But this year, it was women who stole the show, dressing in far more interesting looks than their male counterparts. Pieces seemed to be reflective of the tailoring shown at the tradeshow, but often fitted and styled in more feminine ways.
Sunflower’s debut
In a collaboration between Pitti Uomo and Copenhagen Fashion Week, in honor of its 20th anniversary, Nordic menswear brand Sunflower held its first runway show in the Tuscan capital.
Despite the collection name being ‘No Soundtrack’, Sunflower’s catwalk had the background hum of a live pianist. Clothes balanced Italian loucheness with Danish modernity; there were Canadian tuxedos alongside open-collar suiting, and brash monochromatic looks in denim and leather. The collection felt like a fitting homage to the two nations.
Brown tailoring is back
While we’re yet to see what’s trending on the catwalks for next summer, Pitti attendees made the case that brown tailoring is this summer’s win. Temperatures may have reached 94 degrees, but that didn’t stop guests dressing in full suits with ties. Many accessorized with caps and sandals to keep things casual, while mixing monochrome with different soil, caramel, and chocolate hues.
See also: The Menswear Brands to Pay Attention to This Year
The JiyongKim installation
Korean label JiyongKim presented a striking installation during the three-day fair, highlighting the natural sun bleaching process that the designer has made a signature within his collections.
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In the same pavilion where the brand presented its new collection, 98 raincoats hung from two rails, each one showing a different stage of the sun bleaching process. It not only showed off the designer’s unique methods, but also the high-quality fabrics – a mix of Japanese and Italian – that make it possible.
