The River Test is burbling away, and the water is so clear that you can peer in and see glossy brown trout weaving their way downstream. Occasionally, a few leap out, their mouths gaping comically to catch mayflies. On a summer’s evening, the butter-yellow house, sat on the banks of the river, has its windows and doors flung open. In winter, the beauty is of a different kind. Fog shrouds the land, adding a sense of mystery to the rural setting. Snowdrops, already poking out of the earth, bring the promise of spring.
This is Freelands, a converted fishing lodge that dates back to 1878, now reimagined as a luxury country house for exclusive hire. Set across 28 acres, it is found close to Wherwell, one of England’s prettiest villages in the heart of Hampshire. The property offers guests the ultimate in private estate living, with activities ranging from some of the best fishing in the country to mindful wellness experiences.
When Bob Rich came across the house in 2019, he was already familiar with the area. The American businessman – and keen fisherman – had been visiting Hampshire for many years with his wife Mindy. He’d long been attracted to the pristine waters of the River Test, revered in the fishing world for being nutrient-rich, filtered through chalk, and said to be among the best in the world for dry fly fishing.
The couple set about thoughtfully renovating the property, with no expense spared (the project cost an estimated £50m from purchase to completion). The process saw the complete rebuilding of most of the house, enabling them to add the latest hi-tech conveniences, from touch lighting to power showers, as well as the extension of two wings. Within the grounds, they also added one of the biggest draws for guests: a chic wellness sanctuary – its dusty-pink décor, limestone floors, and state-of-the-art facilities more commonly found in a five-star hotel.
A stay here is curated to each party, with a team of staff on hand for service. House and grounds managers, Olivia and John de Villiers, come from a safari lodge background and their finesse and experience shows (their British take on sundowners delivered to the fire pit after a day by the river is safari-inspired). From expertly crafting seasonal menus in collaboration with a hand-picked team of chefs, to devising an itinerary of activities, whether flower arranging or visiting local landmarks, the service is slick and unobtrusive.
“Each stay is bespoke,” says Olivia. “One minute, we might be organising a formal birthday dinner; the next, we’ll surprise guests with a picnic by the lake. You can do wine tastings, golf or maybe a pottery class. Everything is flexible.”
Also on hand is Mike Hurd, expert fisherman and guide, who teaches novices how to cast and catch trout. “Fly fishing is very rhythmic, much like yoga,” he says. He also guides more experienced hands to the best spot on the three different beats (totalling four miles of fishing). Mike reveals how even first-timers will usually catch a trout very quickly here, and that he’s seen a trend of more guests turning to immersive nature experiences. “It’s a form of escapism, really,” he says. “We’re very lucky to be situated where we are. This stretch of the River Test is the gold standard in the angling world, but it also opens a door onto an untouched landscape.”
Fishing and birdwatching on the rise in the quest for ‘quiet’ pursuits. And it is here where Freelands really gets into its stride. There are three trails offering nature walks through the estate, with pathways lined with towering reeds and kingfishers darting overhead. Located in the grounds is a sage-green-painted shepherd’s hut and an idyllic fishing lodge, complete with a sofa, botanical prints, and a wood burner, where you can decamp and watch egrets glide over the water. The man-made lake can also be fished, as well as used for wild swimming and paddle-boarding. Bee hives, a wild flower meadow, and, soon, a kitchen garden and wetlands area are all part of the property’s conservation work in line with Natural England.
Of course, some guests just want to down tools for a while and enjoy the house itself, which is beautifully curated to offer the ultimate relaxing experience. There are eight double bedrooms with glamorous en suites named after flowers, such as Tulip or Daffodil. Downstairs, there is a series of living and drawing rooms, two dining rooms, a bar, country kitchen, boot and gun rooms. The restoration leans into its arts and crafts heritage – but with a quirky twist. It’s a bit like stepping into the pages of an Enid Blyton book, except if it had been art-directed by Architectural Digest. In fact, the build was led by Yiangou Architects, with Paul Ainsworth heading up the interior design.
Ainsworth’s knack for color brings tons of character to every space with walls painted in deep hues by Farrow & Ball or Edward Blumer – corals, sage greens, and petrol blues, while a mix-match of textiles, prints and wallpapers adds a sense of fun. Each room is artfully staged: in a bedroom tucked under the eaves, for instance, is an armchair covered in a blousy floral by Colefax & Fowler, piled with fluffy towels; while another attic bedroom is entirely papered in Sanderson’s Header Green ivy wallpaper. Gathered around the drawing room’s log burner is a collection of jewel-colored velvet sofas – perfect for cosy moments.
Much of the furniture and artefacts – think: period desks, carved tables and first edition books as well as a rich art collection – were laboriously sourced at auction, with many oil paintings giving a nod to the scenic river setting. Also adding charm, the owners employed local artisans to add final flourishes. The carved Gothic oak staircase was made by family-run SB Joinery, while in the bedrooms, matching ceramics were crafted by Wiltshire-based Megan Keech. During your stay, fresh blooms are dotted around the house, on sideboards and bedside tables, delivered by nearby flower growers, Featherstone Farm.
The retreat, carved out of an old barn, is one of the most tranquil spots, with floor-to-ceiling windows that open out onto a terrace. The vast space has a hydrotherapy pool, sauna, and steam rooms, and guests can book in for treatments from a bulging menu of options – from sound healing to reformer Pilates, or reiki to osteopathy. In the gym, as you work out on the latest Peloton equipment, you’ll watch the river twist around a bend and realise you’re sold on how good it feels to be close to nature: hook, line, and sinker.
