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March 3, 2009updated Jul 29, 2015

EXCLUSIVE! Milan Show Updates

By Pardhasaradhi Gonuguntla

By Tanya Dukes

Giorgio Armani
Smartly tailored pieces have always been Armani’s calling card and the fall 2009 collection played to that strength. Soft skirts and body-conscious cropped pants were shown with jackets that were cropped and tweedy, with soft peplums or gently draped from the anchor of a strong shoulder, all seemingly perfectly effortless to wear. The color scheme didn’t stray far from grey, navy and black but accessories in majorly glossy patent leather — newsboy caps, clutch handbags, and gamine driving gloves — gave the neutral colors a reflective lift. Stunning evening columns doused with crystal beadwork that set off fireworks were a reminder that Giorgio Armani’s talents extend beyond the perfect suit.

There’s nothing like going back to one’s roots to get a strong, clear vision for the future. At Burberry, Christopher Bailey subtly revamped the brand’s heritage pieces and added inspiration from British cultural icons for a mix dubbed “modern nostalgia.” The Burberry trench coat underwent just enough tweaking to see the standard in a fresh, feminine new light: One crowd favorite trailed a fan of pleats, another, with slouchy shoulders and exaggerated lapels looked like a hip, downtown version of something plucked from Virginia Woolf’s wardrobe. A parade of dresses and skirts with pleated silk and silk velvet-brocade had an undeniable, almost-vintage prettiness.

Salvatore Ferragamo
Under Cristina Ortiz, Salvatore Ferragamo produced a pitch-perfect, strong, feminine collection. A line-up of pencil skirts and cropped, high-waisted pants topped with wide sleeved jackets in a range of proportions possessed a beautifully down-to-business attitude. And first-rate knitwear in oversized ribbing that curved around the body in dramatic lines offer a chic alternative to the run-of-the-mill pullover. Happily, in contrast to many fall collections, rich color didn’t take a back seat. Rich shades of raisin, tomato red, winter white and amethyst were integrated throughout.

Gucci will be the well-heeled rocker’s outfitter of choice. Everything an ultra-cool night crawler could want came down the runway, including fiercely sexy micro, micro minis, second-skin, leather and suede pants, tunics with graphic prints and glammed-out fur jackets. Start the workout regime now to be in top form in time for fall. In case the nocturnal crowd needs to make a smart showing during the day, a double-breasted tweed coat, and a series of slick, close-fitting suits won’t cramp the style.

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