Paris Couture Week dazzled with an array of stunning high jewelry collections. Elite Traveler was on the ground as the world’s most reputable maisons unveiled their latest creations in a celebration of artistry, craftsmanship and innovation. Here are a few of our favorite pieces of haute joaillerie we loved throughout the week.
[See also: Chanel Reveals Haute Joaillerie Collection Inspired by Sport]
Boucheron
Boucheron’s latest high jewelry collection is a tribute to water in its rawest state. Claire Choisne, inspired by the raw and mighty waters of Iceland, revealed 26 pieces encapsulating the textures, reflections and transparency of ice and water.
The Iceberg Necklace (pictured above) is crafted from sandblasted rock crystal and diamonds set in white gold, creating the frosted effect of icebergs glistening on black sand beaches. The necklace has intricate illusions causing the diamonds to appear embedded within the crystal. A single necklace takes 2,000 hours to assemble.
Buccellati
Buccellati Paris Collection is a retrospective of Buccelati’s rich 100-year history, featuring some of the most iconic pieces from its archives.
The Venezia Butterfly brooch, designed by Andrea Buccellati and his daughter Lucrezia, is a symbol of the Maison’s generational craftsmanship representing the evolution and soul of Buccellati. This exquisite piece, part of the 2023 Unica Collection, is crafted in yellow and white gold and adorned with over 320 diamonds, totaling over 16 carats.
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Cartier
Cartier’s TuttiTutti collection, the latest addition to the Cartier Libre line, celebrates boldness, innovation, and surprise. It reveals pieces that astonish with their playful, bright colors and unexpected elements.
This unique jewelry box showcases a chrysoprase stone set in the center of an onyx pyramid and encircled by a black wood marquetry crown. Coming in Cartier’s signature color combination of blue and green known as ‘peacock decor’, only 10 will be made.
De Beers
De Beer’s latest high jewelry collection, Forces of Nature, draws inspiration from the majestic wildlife and fauna of southern Africa. Céline Assimon, CEO of De Beers Jewelers, describes the collection as a celebration of “the animal kingdom and our intimate affinity with the natural.”
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Each of the eight collections is inspired by one of Africa’s most magnificent animals. The Spirituality Collection reflects the mystical and ethereal beauty of the greater kudu. The Spirituality Choker necklace features a fancy grey diamond at its center, radiating the kudu’s twilight hues. Interlacing threads of grey and white diamonds mimic the greater kudu’s naturally sculptural horns and capture the animal’s light and movement.
Dior
Dior’s Délicat collection is an ode to the Maison’s legacy and the virtuosity of its artisans. Victoire de Castellane seamlessly applies the principles of haute couture to jewelry, with each piece reflecting the delicate intricacy of embroidery. This collection honors Monsieur Dior’s passion for nature and botany.
Among the many exquisite pieces in the collection, the rose-inspired diamond ring stands out. This ring features an extraordinary pear-shaped diamond weighing over 31 carats. The band of the ring is crafted to resemble the stem of a rose, a direct homage to Monsieur Dior’s favorite flower. Adorned with golden thorns and diamonds, the band delicately embellishes the skin, symbolizing attachment, beauty, and the timeless allure of a rose.
Graff
Graff’s newest collection, A Study of Movement & Light, is designed for each piece to be a wearable architectural art form. Anne-Eva Geffroy, Graff’s design director, explains: “Each jewelry piece is created to be an extension of the body, and while they may appear to be structured and defined, they are designed and crafted to work in harmony with the wearer so that they feel flexible, light, and wearable while amplifying the beauty and magic of each stone.”
These sculptural earrings are influenced by the circular outlines of modern architecture to promote a sense of unity and connection. Featuring layers of oval and round diamonds embraced by lines of white pavé diamonds, totaling 16.29 carats of diamonds. Brilliant-cut emeralds are subtly set within the edges, visible only as the wearer moves.
Hermes
Hermès‘ new high jewelry collection, designed by Pierre Hardy, expresses color in shapes. The collection, Les Formes de la Couleur, explores a spectrum of hues, shapes, volumes and materials. Each piece is a testament to Hardy’s creative vision, capturing the relationship between colors and geometric forms and translating them into wearable art pieces.
The Arc en Couleurs necklace molds to the body’s curves, with innovative mesh work crafted in rose gold. It is set in a gradGraff’s 1,400 blue, yellow, and pink sapphires, tsavorites, spessartite garnets, tanzanites, amethysts, and both brilliant-cut and baguette-cut diamonds.
Another standout piece is the Sac Bijou, crafted in white gold and adorned with diamonds, yellow, blue and pink sapphires, spessartite garnets, aquamarines, and amethysts. This piece combines the practical with the opulent, capturing the essence of color and light in a wearable form.
Messika
Messika’s second opus of the Midnight Sun high jewelry collection focuses on the twilight zone, where the first light of the stars meets the first light of dawn. Through this, the collection explores the singular duality of moments.
The Hypnotic Scale necklace reimagines the classic diamond river in a captivating and harmonious falling effect of pear-shaped diamonds. “Delicately leaning, as if each stone were elongating and intertwining with each other, the pear transforms into a protective scale,” is how artistic director Valérie Messika describes the necklace.
Mikimoto
Mikimoto’s newest collection, The Bows, is a beautiful evolution of their legendary ribbon motif. The Dress Jewellery is a highlight of the collection, inspired by the elegance of a haute couture dress. It features ribbons of 18K white gold and diamonds that accentuate the neckline, combined with the gentle curvature of pearls.
Tasaki
Tasaki unveiled its new high jewelry collection, Nouvelle Ère, in partnership with the Ritz Paris. The collection has four chapters, each drawing inspiration from the Ritz Paris hotel’s 125-year history.
The Lumineuz chapter is inspired by the extravagant spirit and famous grand balls hosted by the Ritz’s founder, César Ritz. The design embodies the fire and magic of César Ritz’s famous parties. With shapes reminiscent of candle flames illuminating the ballrooms, the spray of champagne and fireworks lighting up the skies. The earrings, set in 18K white gold, feature rare colored diamonds paired with Tasaki’s signature Akoya Pearls, capturing the brilliance and enchantment of the Ritz founder.
