Anchored on Fifth Avenue, Wempe has long been a destination for collectors, enthusiasts and dreamers seeking more than just timepieces – they come for legacy, for craftsmanship, and often, for a little magic.
For one man, Ruediger Albers, president at Wempe US, who has been at the heart of it all for nearly 40 years, that magic has never dulled. A cornerstone of the Wempe experience, he’s seen the industry evolve through crises, renaissances and revolutions. And through it all, he’s stayed grounded by a simple ethos: people matter more than product.
“I started out in the midst of the quartz crisis,” he says with a laugh. “My classmates thought I was crazy for wanting to become a watchmaker in the late seventies. But look who’s laughing now.”
The quartz revolution may have rattled the watch world, but for this veteran, it marked the beginning of an extraordinary journey. “What I found was the most interesting job I could’ve ever imagined,” he reflects. “Access to clients from around the world, all with fascinating stories, passions, and professions. The common denominator? They all value time – and how it’s kept.”
Over four decades, he’s witnessed the transformation of the wristwatch from necessity to object of passion. “Once the iPhone came around, watches weren’t needed to tell time anymore. But instead of fading, they evolved. They became jewelry, symbols, impressions and works of art. Despite losing their original purpose, mechanical watches have never been more relevant.”
It’s that contradiction – something obsolete that somehow feels essential – that makes watchmaking so captivating. “Today, we’re pushing new materials, longer power reserves, anti-magnetic components. It’s innovation within tradition. That’s the magic.”
Wempe, like the timepieces it sells, has thrived by innovating through challenge. “We survived the financial crisis. We survived the pandemic during which we actually invented curbside pickup for Rolex,” Albers says with a grin. “I’ve got pictures of someone getting a watch sized on the hood of their car.”
And yet, for all the glamorous brands, technical marvels and precious jewelry, what truly makes Wempe unforgettable are the personal moments – some so powerful, they stay with clients for decades. “I’ve had people walk in with 30-year-old receipts, remembering the exact moment they bought their first piece. Sometimes I joke, ‘Yeah, it was a Tuesday. We sat right there.’ My memory is pretty good but not that good,” Albers says.
There’s one moment in particular that stands out. “Two clients came in months ahead of taking their company public. They both wanted Patek Philippe Aquanauts or Rolex Daytonas. I had to be honest – they weren’t going to get them given the large numbers of existing commitments. However, we were able to deliver two white gold Yacht-Masters on Oysterflex bracelets, engraved them with their company’s logo, the date and the Wall Street Bull. When they came to pick them up, they were floored. They even invited me to the bellringing at the exchange. I ended up in the press photo, on the famous balcony. That was one of those unforgettable days.”
Another favorite: an unexpected delivery at Le Bernardin. “We had a surprise birthday watch served under a silver dome for dessert. The client was speechless. Now everyone asks for that dessert, and of course, it doesn’t exist.”
This personal touch is Wempe’s secret sauce. It extends beyond watches and jewelry into the homes of clients through ultra-luxurious, bespoke safes and storage systems. “We created a sanctuary at our lower level filled with high-security safes with integrated watch winders – like walk-in garages for your timepieces. We’ve worked with Buben & Zorweg for over 25 years. Think spyglass mirrors, bulletproof glass, Berluti leather-lined interior and exteriors. We deliver and install these and even crane-lift them into homes from New York, the Virgin Islands to London and Ibiza.”
The drive to constantly evolve also comes from staying curious. “These days, it’s no longer keeping up with just watch magazines. It’s blogs, learning apps from brands, training modules and a daily flood of watch-related news – we’re always trying to stay ahead because our clients expect not just hospitality but storytelling,” Albers says.
“Luckily, I was able to assemble a loyal team of passionate experts, almost all of whom have been with Wempe for 10 plus years, some even decades. Many clients describe us as a home away from home. It’s a unique atmosphere. Always upbeat, welcoming – more communal and not transactional.”
Even the clientele has evolved: “We’re now serving the grandkids of our original clients. The idea that we’ve been part of three generations of collectors is incredible.”
Having just returned from Geneva, he’s enthusiastic about what’s coming. “Patek Philippe’s new 5328G – it’s an eight-day movement with an instantaneous day-date display. Rolex is also pushing boundaries with its Land Dweller. Seven years of R&D for a slimmer, more accurate, more magnetic-resistant movement. That’s commitment.”
So what’s the crown jewel for someone who already has everything?
“If money were no object? The new ice-blue dial Patek Philippe ref 5308G-001 would be a grail piece. But you can’t just walk in and buy it. It’s not just about money – it’s about relationships. There are so few, and dealers worldwide all have their most loyal collectors vying to be one of the lucky ones. The reality is: the most expensive piece isn’t always the most meaningful. It’s the one that marks a moment.”
He practices what he preaches. “I’ve got a Daytona ‘Ghost’ for a round birthday with a special engraving showcasing my love for cars, a 20-year-old Patek Philippe annual calendar for Wempe’s 125th anniversary, a Chopard Alpine Eagle Wempe Fifth Avenue addition and a few more. Each one tells a story.”
And what of the most-requested piece?
“The stainless steel Patek Philippe Aquanaut. It’s casual, elegant, and almost impossible to get. That just adds to the allure. The chase is half the fun. But collectors have to understand – our annual allocation could fit in one hand. We had 15,000 people visit the store in December alone.”
And while Ethan Hunt would not accept this mission, plenty of watch enthusiasts will not shy away in their pursuit of happiness. The good news: All Pateks are finished the same way. So, if you are looking for that level of perfection, there are great alternatives within their line.
Relationships, Albers says, are built over time – not overnight. “It’s a marathon, not a sprint. Start with what you love, build that rapport. The truth is, there’s no one path to greatness.”
That belief carries over into how Wempe decides who gets what. “We sit as a team and plan out the year. We don’t take deposits. We don’t overpromise. We only commit when we know we can deliver. It’s about trust and true passion. My worst nightmare? Allocating the same watch twice.”
And perhaps that’s the lasting lesson from a career spent in pursuit of precision, not just in horology, but in human connection.
“In retail, you have to love people,” he says. “Every person has a story. If you listen well, you don’t just sell a watch, you help someone tell time differently. My team and I love transferring our enthusiasm. That’s what keeps me coming back.”As the conversation winds down, he smiles. “And if you really want that Aquanaut? Don’t be a pest. Bi-weekly follow-ups by WhatsApp, texts, emails and now even LinkedIn don’t change the math equation. Good things happen to those who wait.”
