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Hawksmoor Marches On

By Chris Boyle

Hawksmoor Air Street

Hawksmoor Air Street. Photo: Dan Lepard

The latest in the Hawksmoor steak empire, Hawksmoor Air Street opened to great acclaim last November and has been packed to the rafters since.

A short walk from Piccadilly Circus, this temple of good British meat now offers rather good British fish too. Art Deco through and through, a grand sweeping staircase leads to the first floor dining room with its leaded windows, polished wood veneer and leather banquettes. Gatsby would approve.

As with the previous Hawksmoors in Shoreditch, Covent Garden and Guildhall, the menu here will please the larger appetites. We’re talking phone-book-thick steaks, and big, fresh fish that haven’t been tarted up into works of art.

Before opening the maiden Hawksmoor in Shoreditch, devoted carnivores Will Beckett and Huw Gott traveled the world in search of the perfect steak. Their verdict was that British beef topped the rest, and so set about sourcing the finest grass-fed cattle in the land. For Hawksmoor Air Street, they resolved to bring the UK’s best fish to London too, and where better to source your daily haul than Brixham Market, Devon.

From the starters, expect such treats as roast scallops with white port and garlic, fried queenies with tartare sauce, Tamworth belly ribs and potted beef and bacon with Yorkshire puds. When it comes to mains, the headline act is steak, from fillets, rib-eyes and rumps, to porterhouse, T-bone and chateaubriand cuts, each with the option of adding two fried eggs, grilled bone marrow or a half lobster. In short, you’ll feel like you’ve been fed. The traditional sauces on offer are joined by bone marrow gravy, anchovy hollandaise and stilton hollandaise.

The fish menu features fresh, tender turbot, royal bream and monkfish grilled over charcoal, as well as Dartmouth lobster steamed to order. Indulgent side dishes include beef dripping fries, creamed spinach and Jansson’s temptation (Sweden’s answer to dauphinoise potatoes). To follow try the peanut butter shortbread with salted caramel ice cream or a classic like bramley apple pie, sticky toffee pudding or lemon meringue pie.

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