Far from the scandalous, statement of intent it once was, today women’s tailoring is commonplace. Yet, on Savile Row — Britain’s famed center of sartorial elegance and suiting — the options for women’s bespoke and made-to-measure garments remain limited. But the scales are tipping. In 2020, The Deck opened, becoming the first female-only tailor to open a storefront on the Row. In 2022, Banshee of Savile Row became the first bespoke women’s tailor on Savile Row to show at London Fashion Week. Now heritage brand Norton & Sons is entering the fray, launching made-to-measure tailoring for women for the first time, and bringing its over 200 years of history along for the ride.
“Norton & Sons has always done bespoke womenswear,” says Hannah Bond, tailoring assistant at Norton & Sons. “In the past, we have dressed Queen Victoria and the Empress of Austria, we just never really shouted about it.”
As one of the oldest tailors on Savile Row (established 1821), Norton & Sons’ reputation is enhanced thanks to the wealth of history associated with the brand. During the late 19th and early 20th century, adventurers and explorers flocked to the tailor as they were experienced in producing lightweight garments well suited for those heading to Africa and the East. Winston Churchill wore Norton & Sons during his travels, while Lord Carnarvon had donned a suit from the tailor the morning his team opened the tomb of Tutankhamun. This connection to exploration in a bygone era is harnessed throughout Norton & Sons Tailoring for Women.
The launch of Tailoring for Women at Norton & Sons marks a significant next step for the heritage brand as they offer made-to-measure garments for women for the first time. This initial collection is comprised of three jackets: single-breasted, double-breasted and a safari jacket. In addition to five styles of trousers: The Explorer Trouser, flared, wide leg, straight leg, cigarette and a pair of shorts. These should be considered as the initial starting point from which customers can select from a range of over 8,000 cloths.
Today, sustainability and ethics within the clothing industry is an important consideration for customers, many of whom are interested in moving away from the wasteful malpractice of trend-driven fast fashion, and are prepared to spend more money on a quality long-lasting item. Deciding to go the bespoke or made-to-measure route solves many of these issues, and is now more than ever a direction that’s open to women. “At Norton & Sons we don’t do things by halves, our womenswear will be following that tradition,” said Bond.
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The inception
At the forefront of Norton & Sons Tailoring for Women is Hannah Bond, for whom the last two years have been somewhat of a rollercoaster. In her final year at university, Bond won the womenswear award in a design competition, judged by ex-director of Norton & Sons, Patrick Grant. “I knew he worked on Savile Row so I hounded him until I got an internship. I graduated in 2022 and immediately headed to Norton & Sons, where I was supposed to work for three months. I ended up staying for five.” When the internship ended, Bond was offered a permanent role in the team.
While Bond was settling into her new position, things were changing at the top of Norton & Sons. James Sleater — the owner of a separate Savile Row outfit, Cad & the Dandy, in addition to the Row’s coffee shop, The Service — purchased a majority stake in Norton & Sons and was now director. Having seen particular success at Cad & the Dandy, Sleater understood the importance of attracting younger clientele to Savile Row, while preserving the street’s quality and heritage.
“So when I started permanently in January 2023, one of my first projects was designing and launching womenswear at Norton & Sons,” said Bond.
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The concept
From its inception, Tailoring for Women at Norton & Sons was viewed as an extension of the brand as opposed to a separate entity. “The idea is that it’s going to mirror our menswear,” said Bond. “Our house cut has developed over 200 years, but it has always been very natural. A natural shoulder, slimmer waist, slim sleeves and nothing to flamboyant, we are 200 years old but our house cut is quite contemporary. Our womenswear is a reflection of that.”
While the cut of the new womenswear collection follows many of the same principles that have helped define what makes a Norton & Sons suit, the brand’s heritage is also clearly displayed in this brand-new line.
“We wanted that fun, explorer side to come through, and you can see it in the safari jacket,” said Bond. “Compared to a men’s safari jacket, this one has a bit more shape. When I designed it, I added princess seams in the back, giving more shape while also making it easier to take in for a slimmer fit. Many of the safari jackets on the market today are quite square, but you can cinch the waist with a belt. I wanted our jacket to look fitted even without the belt.”
The shorts also highlight the explorer theme of the collection. “I wanted to do something a bit different for the Row, I’ve not seen many other women’s tailors do it. It’s fun. The silhouette is a little bit boxy and practical, linking to the explorer inspiration. With women’s tailoring you can play with the rules a little more, adding shorts and more casual styles, at Norton’s we have never been overly strict with our house style which gives us a bit of freedom. One of the aims of the collection was that you could mix and match pieces with those you already own, creating a capsule wardrobe.”
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The process
Getting a bespoke or made-to-measure garment from Norton & Sons begins with a consultation. Online or over the phone, clients can book a one-hour slot at the store at 16 Savile Row. For US customers, Norton & Sons regularly holds trunk shows in both New York and Houston.
“With womenswear, that consultation will most likely be with me,” said Bond. “We usually start with cloth. I’ll ask the customer a few questions to understand what they want from the suit. Where do they live? Do they want it for work or a specific event? Is it for year-round or the summer? We have over 8,000 cloths to choose from and those questions help to narrow that down. If they travel a lot we will go for a high twist cloth that will not crease as much, if they’re in a hot country we would look at a more open weave to help them feel a bit cooler.”
Once an appropriate cloth has been selected, the design process begins. “We now do all of our design digitally,” said Bond. “We have a tool where the customer can select, single-breasted, double-breasted, how many buttons, the type of button, pockets, lapel width, it’s all customizable. Then we take measurements and a few photos and that’s about it for around four weeks.”
After four weeks, the client returns to the store for a toile fitting. A toile is essentially a suit but cut in a test cloth. With this test garment, the tailor can make final alterations in terms of fit and shape. As the cloth that will be used to make the final item has not been cut, there is plenty of opportunity for customization.
“I’ll make all the adjustments necessary, then send that information off to our pattern cutter,” said Bond. “The pattern cutter will amend the block and we send it off for a finish. The next time we see the piece around four weeks later, it’s in real cloth, fully lined and canvassed. From that point it’s only minor tweaks and alterations, like lengthening a sleeve, or taking the waist in a tiny bit.”
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The launch
Norton & Sons Tailoring for Women officially launched at an intimate gathering of customers, press and industry professionals at Norton & Sons’ only site, 16 Savile Row, on July 23. Bond discussed the influences that went into Norton & Sons Tailoring for Women before passing over to Norton & Sons ambassador, journalist Kate Adie CBE.
Donning a new blue linen jacket from the collection, Adie recounted tales from her life traveling as chief news correspondent for BBC News, referencing how the politics behind how women dress on screen had changed throughout her career and the difficulties that come with attending riots in high heels.
“She’s the true embodiment of a Norton & Sons woman,” said Bond before the event, “As I was measuring her up for the jacket, she mentioned her shoulder dropped to the left, it had done ever since she was shot.”
Norton & Sons Tailoring for Women is now available, consultations at Savile Row, or trunk show appointments in either New York or Houston can be booked via the website.
