Given that it officially opened in spring 2018, we couldn’t call Four Seasons Seychelles Resort at Desroches Island new — and yet, something about this intimate, castaway-style resort feels, well, fresh.
Maybe it’s the timeless, earthy-inspired flair that runs through the interior spaces, or maybe it was the years’ worth of Covid-19 restrictions that stopped the resort from getting into its full stride, but something has rendered Four Seasons’ second Seychellois hotel something of a hidden paradise.
A short 35-minute plane ride away from Seychelles International Aiport on the island of Mahé (Desroches has its own airstrip that cuts through the island), Four Seasons is the only resort on the 900-acre island, with the rest mostly dedicated to a small handful of vacation villas, untamed tropical forest and locals’ homes. The result is a wildly luxurious resort with all the Four Seasons trimmings you’d expect, that simultaneously manages to weave an authentic amount of local culture into every aspect.
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Stay
Four Seasons Resort at Desroches Island has just 71 accommodations, the majority of which come under its ‘Villa’ category. Most are one-bedroom, with enormous four-poster beds looking directly out to private gardens (complete with their own pool) and showstopping bathrooms complete with his-and-hers sinks, a circular stone bathtub and an outdoor shower. Welcome treats are aplenty too, from chilled ginger tea to handmade turtle-shaped chocolates.
Like the rest of the resort, the interiors firmly fit into the laidback luxury category, with a stone-and-black color palette accentuated by local artwork and natural materials; there’s nothing gauche or flashy about Desroches.
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It’s all about relaxing here, so expect plenty of places to while away a quiet hour or two, from the beach-facing hammocks and the pool-side pagoda to the hidden mezzanine terrace. It is, however, worth noting that while your bedroom and much of your outdoor area are completely shielded from view, there are a few sections of the gardens that overlook your neighbors (and vice versa).
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If you’re with the family or a larger group, consider one of the multi-bedroom villas (there’s a presidential villa with seven bedrooms), or for longer stays, look into one of the villa residences, which sit further away from the main resort hub and come fully staffed.
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Dine
The resort’s main restaurant is Claudine, which overlooks the ocean and serves an internationally inspired menu all day — from dim sum, American pancakes and shakshuka at breakfast to Kreole fish curries and Lebanese grilled meats in the evening. Next door to Claudine is The Deli — a chilled-out Japanese-style izakaya. Don’t miss the chicken karaage nor the OTT ‘Desroches Coconut’ dessert.
For a special occasion, make the journey to the far southwest of the island and you will arrive at The Lighthouse. Begin with a drink on the terrace before heading down to the main restaurant; if possible, snag a seat outside so you can bury your feet in the sand while chowing down on grilled seafood and dry-aged meats.
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The resort makes the absolute most out of its myriad scenic spots with plenty of destination dining options, from beachfront picnics and sunset-bathed dinners on the old jetty to private dining on the top of the lighthouse. In true Four Seasons style, in-room dining is top-notch, too.
Considering its remote location, Four Seasons Resort at Desroches Island has made impressive strides toward self-sustenance: all of the eggs it serves come from hens reared on the island, with much of its fruit sourced on-site, too. There are plans in place to improve these efforts as the resort continues to establish itself on the island.
Relax
The resort has a dedicated wellness space with five treatment rooms, as well as a beauty salon. A comprehensive treatment menu includes a number of facial and massage treatments, with signatures including the ginger and lavender poultice massage. There are also daily yoga classes and, if you drag yourself away from the beach, a state-of-the-art gym facility.
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Explore
Each guest gets their own bike (which, as I only noticed on day two after being scared on the wrong bike for 48 hours, are very sweetly emblazoned with your initials) to get around — and there is plenty of getting around to be done. The resort takes up a decent chunk of the island and there is a small local community, but much is left wild with palm-tree fringed paths — the journey is a fun one, with a crossing over the Desroches airstrip along the way.
A must on Desroches is a visit to the tortoise sanctuary. You’re almost guaranteed to run into a few of the older residents (they can purportedly live to up to nearly 200 years old) roaming freely around the island, but before they go it alone, they are raised in the sanctuary, under the watchful eyes of the dedicated team. Drop in with the island’s conservationist Nasreen to see the tiny little hatchlings and to feed the teenagers — they are surprisingly partial to attention and will charge over for a head scratch.
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Thanks to its location in a more remote portion of the Seychelles archipelago, each side of Desroches offers different types of beach experience: the northerly edge tends to be a little calmer, while the south gets more waves (surfing classes are available). The team is out bright and early every day to check conditions; check in with them to get the latest.
While not technically on the resort’s grounds, Four Seasons services several of the main beaches around the island, with sun loungers, kayaks, stand-up paddleboards, chilled water and bathroom facilities all available, free of charge.
If you don’t fancy the bike ride (which would be more than understandable — the island has over nine miles of trails), a buggy shuttle runs regularly between each of the beaches, the tortoise sanctuary and the main resort complex.
Qatar Airways offers return flights from London to the Seychelles from £802 (approx. $1,035) per person. Fares are subject to change and availability.
