It’s not surprising that it’s that green-as-the-Ring of Kerry 1936 Ford Phaeton that my son continues to talk about years later. It’s parked in a porte cochere at Sheen Falls Lodge, ready to whisk guests into the characteristic village of Kenmare for shopping. Along with the recollections of the hotel’s affable staff with their lilting accents and the view of the waterfall from our huge suite, that car has forged lasting memories of a long-ago visit to Ireland’s Relais & Chateaux showpiece that had become part of our family lore.
I frankly feared to return in case the retreat didn’t measure up. But that trepidation was in vain. I happened to arrive last October just as Sheen Falls Lodge was among the first hotels in the world to garner two Michelin Keys for some of the best hospitality on earth.
If the mark of a superlative hotel is that it changes with the times, but manages to remain the same—to keep its soul intact— then this former fishing lodge completes the mission. I found this five-star marvel gracefully modernized, but fearlessly enwrapped in the sort of cozy sameness one feels when wearing a vintage tweed coat or when returning home for a family holiday, awash in old-school traditions. That’s the mood one yearns for on a visit to rural Ireland, after all.
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Likewise, on the same jaunt to Ireland, I revisited The Merrion. As Dublin’s peerless Georgian jewel box, the stately hotel remains an unequivocal homage to noble urbanity. Effused in Irish bonhomie, it welcomes guests without stuffiness or undue formality. Grand, but intimate, The Merrion keeps current.
Over the years, it has re-imagined itself subtly and cleverly as an art restorer would touch up a masterwork. Contemporary shifts and pivots weave into the status quo of the place (such as a new restaurant and spa) that ensure The Merrion stays relevant to a new generation of travelers. At the same time, the hotel never turns its back on its prodigious history.
Related
Distinct from one another, these two Irish hotels offer a separate but equally luxurious slice of the Emerald Isle. Indulge in Sheen Falls Lodge with its slow, convivial pace of the hinterlands or enjoy The Merrion’s elegant whisper of sophisticated city life.
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Sheen Falls Lodge, County Kerry
Built for a lucky marquis as his fishing lodge in the 17th century, set between verdant mountains and roiling sea, Sheen Falls Lodge has a silhouette that brings to mind the bucolic Irish hideaway of your imagination. You’ll find it near County Kerry’s many famous sights, tucked into a wooded, waterside expanse just minutes from the heritage village of Kenmare.
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Right away, you’ll ease into a cosseting nook and turn off your phone to pay attention to more important things: the hypnotic sound of its famous waterfall, the piano player, an owl’s hoot or the bartender as he stirs a martini with the hotel’s own gin. On 300 blissful acres, abundant with trails, daubed with painterly sites (and sights): a boathouse, a graveyard, benches for canoodling, a portentous library and a delightfully rickety cocktail bar with a view, Sheen Falls melds old and new with ease.
Modernized and reconfigured astutely, it feels charmingly old and cheerfully new at once. Devoted and exceptional staff—some have been with the hotel for decades—ensure you’ll want to return just to chat with them again.
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Stay
Composed of 77 rooms and suites that include two stand alone villas and three cottages, two with thatched roofs, the hotel has rooms in both the original lodge and newer buildings. I stayed in Oscar’s Suite, a stunning haven that measures nearly 1,000 sq ft. Lavishly appointed, its marque attractions were French doors that opened to my own waterside garden terrace, adjacent to the falls.
Dine
As a Relais & Chateaux property, Sheen Falls Lodge excels in trademark gastronomy. The Falls Restaurant snares gourmet lovers with seasonal dishes such as estate-smoked salmon and mountain lamb. Its panoramic windows open to nature’s bounty, so that even candlelit meals take on an indoor/outdoor elan.
Kitted out in the former stables, The Stables Brasserie and Bar provides that gastropub fix, with all-day dishes achieving epicurean standards. A three-tiered afternoon tea shouldn’t be missed, and a private dinner in the subterranean wine cellar will woo absolutely anyone you hope to impress.
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Relax
Everything about Sheen Falls Lodge relaxes. But to take repose to the nth degree, check into the Easanna Spa, a sanctum that avails itself of both Elemis and Seabody, a local brand that harnesses the healing powers of seaweed. A well-equipped fitness room and heated indoor pool help keep your routine on track. Guests can also hike, do falconing, axe throwing (a supreme aggression reliever) and fishing on property. Meet with Sheen Falls’ top-notch genealogist to delve into your family’s past for a less active, but equally rewarding, activity.
Explore
Should time allow, drive around the rings—both Kerry and lesser-known Beara—for their scenic wonders. Let the staff chauffeur you in that gorgeous Phaeton into Kenmare, where you can shop, peruse galleries, dine at local restaurants and explore the village’s own standing stone circle.
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The Merrion, Dublin
On a trek through Dublin’s Georgian neighborhood, you might well walk past The Merrion, assuming it to be a lofty mansion, home to a regal homeowner. That’s part of the appeal, of course: it feels residential and exclusively upscale—almost like a private club.
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Composed of four assiduously restored Georgian townhouses, the Irish hotel fits together like well-cut puzzle pieces, ensuring it’s difficult to know where each house ends and begins. A stunning, interior garden, complete with a stately statue of James Joyce, anchors the interiors, while Irish masterworks from its gobsmacking private collection, incite awe at every turn. Steeped in splendor, with gleaming marble, shiny silver and some of the best housekeeping I’ve experienced anywhere, The Merrion is pampering enough for honeymooners, relaxed enough for families and comfortable for solo travelers.
Stay
Comprised of 142 richly plush rooms and suites, The Merrion divides its guest rooms into the newer Garden Wing and the Main House. Elevated amenities — such as cut crystal glasses, monogrammed towels, original artwork and period furniture—are standard throughout—and any room will feel indulgent. However, consider The Lord Monck Suite, a roomy, refined sanctuary, replete with restored rococo plasterwork and a rounded ceiling embellished with eye-catching birds and flowers.
Dine
Located within The Merrion Hotel is the two-Michelin-star Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, which marries French methods with seasonal ingredients. Less formal, The Garden Room serves up more casual but still sumptuous fare, such as organic Irish salmon or fish and chips.
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Eat artfully in the Drawing Room, where the bountiful and aesthetically spellbinding Art Tea delivers cakes and treats inspired by The Merrion’s art collection. No. 23 — a tranquil bar just off the drawing rooms — and The Cellar Bar, ensconced in 18th-century wine vaults, pour up everything from Guinness to Sancerre.
Relax
In a quiet corner of the Irish hotel, The Spa at the Merrion offers a slew of classic services from ESPA and Biologique Recherche. Fitness lovers can swim in the 60-ft pool or work out in the state-of-the-art gym.
Explore
Within the storied walls, Ireland’s largest private art collection comes to life with a self-guided audio tour, available at the concierge’s desk. Grab a coupe of champagne as you explore works by JB Yeats, William Scott and Louis Le Brocquy, among others. Nearby, the National Gallery, Epic Museum and National History Museum await. Or, join the hotel’s number one hiking guide, Paula Hannon, on a cliff walk trek across some of Dublin’s spectacular coastline. Other experiences, such as bespoke pub tours, city tours, shopping tours and more can be arranged.
