In the modern age, five-star hotels are seemingly in a constant bid to achieve the bigger, the bolder and, for want of a better word, the more luxurious. It comes as a surprise, then that Baur au Lac – a hospitality institution overlooking Lake Zurich – has decided to replace its formerly two-Michelin-starred restaurant with Marguita, a more casual outlet laced with Mediterranean influence.
Honoring the Mediterranean tradition of naming establishments after prominent female members of the family, Marguita takes its name from the seventh-generation owner of Baur au Lac, Marguita Kracht.
“Our new restaurant celebrates the Mediterranean lifestyle,” says Kracht. “Effortless sophistication, naturalness and timeless grace can be found in everything, from the dishes and wine list to the interior. We are delighted beyond measure to now be able to spoil our guests in this enchanting place.”
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Team
Assuming the role of head chef at the newly opened Marguita is Maximilian Müller. Having worked his way up through the ranks at Baur au Lac, beginning as a commis chef over a decade ago, Müller takes to the new role with confidence in tow. Afterall, it was under his tenure as head chef that Pavillon earned its two Michelin stars.
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Menu
While Swiss cuisine may be most famous for its hearty, indulgent dishes – raclette, fondue and rosti being among the most beloved – Müller’s menu at Marguita veers more toward the lighter dishes more typically enjoyed over in the Mediterranean portion of Europe.
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While the restaurant bills itself as more ‘casual’ than its predecessor, a touche of luxe remains, though: Most notably in the indulgent caviar program that leads the menu. Appetisers are fresh and inviting – beef tartare; ratatouille tart; beetroot carpaccio.
Entrees are indulgent and thoughtful, from a sharing seabass baked in a salt crust and served with either tomato vinaigrette or white wine risotto, to braised veal cheeks Marguita might be billed as ‘Mediterranean’ but Müller has undoubtedly injected some principles of northern Europe, where hearty recipes reign supreme.
Big emphasis is placed on ingredient provenance throughout, too; the menu even has a key to denote where everything from the fish to the bread is sourced.
To accompany Müller’s menu, sommelier Marc Almert offers a list of over 150 wines – a third of which hail from the hotel’s in-house wine merchant Baur au Lac Vins.
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Interiors
The busiest man in interiors, Martin Brudnizki, has once again lent his discerning mind to Baur a Lauc for Marguita (having also designed the hotel’s Bar & Brasserie back in 2019). Reflecting the restaurant’s more casual identity, the space is welcoming and bright, with huge windows drawing in plenty of natural light. Warm shades of yellow and orange sit happily against flashes of brash detailing, while bespoke mosaic flooring pays homage to the building’s original design.
Seating is a mixture of banquettes and upholstered chairs, with materials rotating to reflect the seasons – warmer months are for soft linens, while come winter, they are replaced with mohair. Little touches like this remind us that we’re still in a five-star establishment.
Marguita, Baur Au Lac, Talstrasse 1, 8001 Zürich, Switzerland, marguita.ch
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