Nearly five years later, and the impact of Covid-19 continues to be muttered among the hospitality tribe: restaurants shuttered and chefs were out of work. One of the casualties was Dialogue – Dave Beran’s teeny tiny Michelin-starred Los Angeles destination.
But, Dialogue fans (of which there were many – the restaurant’s 18 seats were among the hottest in the city) fear not: Beran has evolved the concept and brought it to a larger market with the recent launch of Seline.
Named after his daughter, Harvest Moon (seline translates to ‘moon’ in Latin), the opening marks a deeply personal trajectory for Beran and one that celebrates his professional journey to date. At its home in Santa Monica, the new restaurant invites just 38 guests per sitting to climb into Beran’s culinary mind.
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Chef
Beran’s resume reads like a name-dropping exercise in the US’s best restaurants. Highlights include a pivotal role as chef de cuisine at Chicago’s industry-changing, three-Michelin-starred Alinea under Grant Achatz before a stint as executive chef at the award-winning Next.
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In 2016, Beran departed Next with aims of opening his own LA restaurant. Those dreams quickly materialized: Dialogue launched in 2017 and Pasjoli followed in 2019. Both earned Michelin stars.
While Dialogue closed up shop in the midst of the pandemic, Pasjoli – an elevated French-style bistro in Santa Monica – continues to thrive.
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Menu
At Seline, Beran is sticking to what he knows best and the menu is a distinctly fine-dining, set-menu-only affair. Formed of 15-18 courses and priced at a not-so-delicate $295, the menu celebrates the ingredients of southern California in a quirky, introspective way. The offering changes seasonally, with the aim of telling the story of its state throughout the year.
Beran’s latest culinary expression dives deep into the many ways an ingredient can perform. In the launch menu, the squab, for example, is first presented in its ‘obvious parts’ (breast, leg, bones), while a following course showcases the ‘less obvious parts’: liver, skin, heart.
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While this is clearly fine dining at its pinnacle, Beran and his team are going to great lengths to ensure the menu is approachable and genuinely enjoyable – dishes are intended to be delicious as well as comforting.
To accompany, wine director Matthew Brodbine has put together two beverage pairings: An international wine pairing focused on forward-thinking vintners and a non-alcoholic option that includes a selection of house-made softs.
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Interiors
The 38-seat restaurant was imagined by Rugo/Raff Architects who have created an elegant dining room categorized by its dark color scheme, soft lighting and luxurious pops of gold.
Like the menu, Seline’s interiors have been designed to add a welcoming, convivial atmosphere to the world of traditional fine dining. Barriers between kitchen and tables have been removed, encouraging diners to interact with chefs, while tableware has been specifically chosen to provoke conversation among guests.
Summer may feel far off at the moment, but when the milder months finally swing back around, Seline will debut its 20-seat garden where guests can enjoy a dedicated eight-course Garden Menu.
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