From the most complicated timepiece ever made to a watch with a moonphase accurate for 45 million years, 2024 witnessed the unveiling of a number of record-breakers. Some of the most complex three-dimensional and classic watches made their debuts with new pairings of complications, new methods of regulating resonance and world-firsts. Brands teamed with artists and architects for exquisite renderings that would be immediately identifiable from across a crowded room, and the brands that excel in high jewelry went over and above the ‘typical’ diamond-setting experience.
Indeed, it was a year of experimentation, exploration and innovation — which brings us to some new Top Watches criteria. Almost every year since the inception of our monumental Top Watches feature in 2017, we have adhered to the idea of presenting the top 50 watches of the year (except during the pandemic, when we reduced that number to 40 due to the slowed watch production). This year, we eschewed the concept of presenting 50 watches. Why, after all, should there be 50 watches in the lineup if 50 watches don’t fit the bill?
How Top Watches 2024 was chosen
This year, the criteria for selecting our Top Watches of 2024 were more stringent than ever as we sought only the most exhilarating concepts. This means that some beautiful watches, some vintage-inspired pieces and some forward-thinking renditions simply didn’t make the cut. We think, though, that this more discerning approach delivers a top-notch experience wherein Elite Traveler readers get a more in-depth look at the epitome of innovation, precision and craftsmanship.
It also enables us to showcase the top watches of 2024 without trying to categorize them, as we believe that each watch stands individually on its own merit. There are some basic criteria, though, that we did employ. For instance, every timepiece retails for a minimum of $20,000 — a number that better reflects the decision-making buying power of our readers. As always, there were a few other musts: Watches must have been introduced in 2024, and selected timepieces must be new and different when it comes to display, indications, functions, technology and aesthetics.
A new dial color or a new material for an existing watch just doesn’t cut it. It was no easy feat and took months of studying the intricacies of the watches unveiled between January 1, 2024, and May 31, 2024. We feel, though, that the fewer than 30 watches presented in this edition of Top Watches is the best reflection of haute horology and the making of legends.
A Lange & Sohne, Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”
German brand A. Lange & Sohne never ceases to delight its loyal followers with its minimalistic yet cutting-edge appeal. The newest Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” is no exception. It builds on the brand’s Datograph series that first made its debut 25 years ago, but with some incredible updates. Powered by the 684-part manually wound Manufacture Caliber L952.4 and crafted in A. Lange & Sohne proprietary Honeygold, the watch — with flyback chronograph and perpetual calendar — boasts incredible green luminescence in the dark. The jumping minute counter and moonphase display provide added intrigue, just in case the constantly moving tourbillon escapement was not enough. Just 50 pieces will be made, each numbered.
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Audemars Piguet, [Re]Master02
Architecture on the wrist takes great shape in the asymmetrical Audemars Piguet [Re]Master02 watch; it pays tribute to a timepiece from 1960. The new 41mm watch boasts a horizontal rectangular case made of a new alloy referred to as 18K sand gold thanks to its sandy matte finish. The top and bottom of the case, as well as the left side, are boldly angled, while the right side is simply a straight edge. The “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dial is segmented — with 12 triangles of textured blue sections showing different hues depending on the light. But the dial extends beyond the main ‘square’ into the right side of the rectangle, with two squares of blue that endow it with geometric beauty and cutting-edge appeal. The self-winding Caliber 7129 is an extra-thin movement that offers hours and minutes. It is created in a limited edition of 250 pieces.
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Bovet, Recital 28 Prowess 1
The new Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 timepiece is a mechanical wonder in the realm of world time indications. Three-dimensional mechanics and art come together in this watch that is the first world timer to solve the problem of knowing if/when a particular time zone is in Daylight Saving Time. This 46.3mm platinum Dimier ‘Writing Desk’ case (a sloped case that is wider at the top and slimmer at the base) houses the hand-wound manufacture movement consisting of a massive 744 hand-finished parts. The watch offers hours, minutes and seconds on the flying tourbillon, as well as world time on rollers with UTC, summer and winter indications. The innovative and complex roller system was five years in the making. There is also a perpetual calendar with rollers for month and leap year, and discs for the day. Bovet holds patents on the double-face flying tourbillon and on the 3D teething on the gears that drive the month roller. Just eight watches will be made per year.
Bulgari, Fenice High Jewelry Watch
From Bulgari’s all-new Aeterna high jewelry collection, the mysteriously beautiful Fenice high jewelry watch celebrates the mythical phoenix, a symbol of immortality, renewal and power. Designed by Bulgari Watch Division creative director Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, the watch required more than 3,000 hours of meticulous craftsmanship and gem-setting. It consists of more than 160 carats of gemstones ranging from pink, blue and purple sapphires to rubies, pink garnets, amethysts, tanzanites, aquamarines, iolites and diamonds. The stunning cuff bracelet has a ‘secret’ watch dial — hidden beneath a rare 9.78-carat Paraiba tourmaline that moves aside to reveal the time. The phoenix is surrounded by spikes, which were inspired by Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s altarpiece in the church of Santa Maria della Vittoria in Rome (Bulgari’s birth city). It is a one-of-a-kind piece.
Carl F Bucherer, Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral
Bringing together technical and mechanical prowess with innovative high-tech processes and age-old gem setting, Carl F. Bucherer pulls out all the stops with its new Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral watches in a host of vibrant colors (blue, green or purple). Powering the watch is the brand’s patented double peripheral automatic winding caliber CFB T3000. The peripheral winding not only winds the watch but also the tourbillon escapement (at 12 o’clock on the dial). The dials are created using laser technology to form peaks and valleys within, which the lacquer collects for lighter tones on top of the pyramids and more depth at the base. The watch is then meticulously set with 40 baguette-cut sapphires, tsavorites or amethysts (depending on the model). Just 18 of each will be made.
Cartier, Crocodile Jewelry Watch
Cartier has long had a love affair with animals and has created some of the most stunning unique pieces of jewelry and watches in the likeness of alligators, crocodiles, panthers and more. The new Animal High Jewelry collection further underscores its commitment to reinterpreting the beauty of nature. This crocodile jewelry watch features the body of an 18K white gold sculpted crocodile curved around the dial in magnificent glory. At 7 o’clock, the tail flails back onto the gemstone-encrusted dial. The crocodile is set with diamonds and features an emerald eye. The dial has mother-of-pearl and sapphires that reflect the blues of the water where the crocodile lives.
Chanel, Seated Lion Long Necklace Watch
Coco Chanel was inspired by a host of animal influences including the beloved lion. So, this year’s unveiling of the Seated Lion Long Necklace watch is a perfect reflection of the brand’s roots. The pendant watch features a carved 18K yellow gold lion seated proudly atop a regal base of 23 baguette-cut diamonds weighing 4.42 carats. At the underside of the pendant sits a black lacquer watch dial, so the wearer needs only lift the pendant to see the time. The lion hangs from a gold circle set with 20 baguette-cut diamonds that rests at the bottom of an 18K gold chain set with 191 brilliant-cut diamonds and hand-faceted onyx beads. In total, the watch boasts more than eight carats of diamonds. Just 10 pieces will be made.
Chopard, Imperiale Métiers d’Art
Showcasing its impeccable artistic prowess, Chopard’s newest Imperiale watch is a reflection of nature’s perfection. Crafted in either ethical 18K white or rose gold, the elegant dial of this 36mm watch is crafted using mother-of-pearl and enamel marquetry. This white gold version, with a case entirely set with diamonds, features a teal-colored enamel background against which white enamel and pink mother-of-pearl flowers spring to life. Some have ‘opened’ petal centers — each set with padparadscha sapphires. The strategic placement of the flowers on the dial forms a geometric pattern that resembles an arabesque motif. The watch is powered by the 167-part Chopard 96.17-C mechanical movement. Each watch features distinctive Chopard elements, including dagger-style hands, a lotus-flower crown and column-shaped lugs.
Corum, Golden Bridge Classic Serpent Watch
Thanks to the incredibly innovative Golden Bridge in-line movement — meaning the entire caliber is in a single vertical lineup — Corum has a lot of room in its Golden Bridge watches to create elaborate and inspiring motifs. Such is the case with the new Golden Bridge Classic Serpent one-of-a-kind watch. Crafted in 18K 5N rose gold, the tonneau-shaped watch with crown at 6 o’clock features an artfully hand-carved gold serpent that winds its way around the movement from top to bottom of the dial. Surrounding it is a green floral leaf pattern that is airbrushed and miniature hand-painted, like a veritable Garden of Eden. The watch is powered by the hand-wound CO 113 movement with bridges and plates made of 18K gold. The watch is finished with a green alligator leather strap. It’s truly one of a kind.
Franck Muller, Vanguard Rainbow Revolution 3 Skeleton
Bringing the vibrancy of the rainbow to the wrist, Franck Muller’s newest Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton Rainbow watch is all about showcasing the complicated triple-axis tourbillon movement in all its glory and outlining it with a painter’s palette of gemstones. Not only do the three carriages, each rotating at different speeds, mesmerize the onlooker, but also the addition of bold color on the skeletonized movement parts brings the idea of the rainbow full circle. The entire case is set with baguette-cut gemstones totaling 28.4 carats.
Hermes, Arceau Duc Attele
Originally designed in 1978 by the famed Henri d’Origny, the all-new Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé watch is a deft blend of aesthetics and haute horology. The alluring 43mm titanium timepiece boasts a triple-axis tourbillon whose opening is so large that it seems to rise out of the center of the dial to showcase its mesmerizing constant revolutions. The three carriages of the escapement each rotate at different speeds for a delightful dance. Additionally, the watch is a minute repeater that chimes the hours, quarter hours and minutes. The U-shaped peripheral equestrian-inspired gongs reside at 6 o’clock. The complex mechanical manual-wind movement consists of 563 individual components. Just 24 pieces will be made; each will be numbered.
Hublot, MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium
When it unveiled its revolutionary MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium watch earlier this year, Hublot introduced a concept that uses linear axes each with gold weight instead of a traditional rotor to power the watch. Powered by the new 592-part movement, HUB9013, the watch boasts a patent-pending system wherein two vertical linear solid-white-gold weights on either side of the center time display wind the movement bidirectionally and are protected by a Hublot-developed system of shock absorbers. The watch also features two new patents, including multiple rotating roller-like displays across the watch to indicate hours, minutes and power reserve. The seconds are indicated directly on the inclined (tilted) tourbillon (that compensates for errors in timekeeping due to the force of gravity on it when it is in certain positions). Devoid of a dial and hands, the rectangular watch is being made in a limited edition of 50 pieces.
IWC, Portugieser Eternal Calendar
Until now, the majority of luxury watches with moonphase indications were accurate to the year 2100 before needing an adjustment to compensate for the leap year that should happen but won’t (so that the Gregorian Calendar and real solar time align). Now, however, IWC shatters that standard with its Portugieser Eternal Calendar — with moonphase accuracy for a whopping 45 million years. Years in the making, the Eternal Calendar boasts a revolutionary gear system mechanically programmed for 400 years, including three skipped leap years over that time. The calendar can calculate leap years correctly until 3999. The watch features a Double Moon display at 12 o’clock on the dial showcasing the moon from both the Northern and Southern hemispheres. The automatic movement also displays the date, day, month, year and a small hacking second hand. The 44.4mm case is crafted in platinum. Production is limited due to the production time and involvement.
Jacob & Co, Astronomia Tourbillon Regulator
Ever since it unveiled its first Astronomia triple-axis tourbillon, Jacob & Co has continuously evolved the series with intriguing planets, stars, animals and more. The brand’s newest Astronomia Tourbillon Regulator, a double-axis tourbillon that becomes a triple through its movement around the dial every 20 minutes, is a true statement of elegance and technology. Crafted in 18K rose gold with a rich blue base plate (back dial) and subsidiary dials, the watch is powered by the exclusive Jacob & Co manual winding JCAM56 caliber consisting of a massive 552 individual parts. The watch offers constant force for incredible isochronism as well as hour and minute hands; a regulator second (meaning the dial for this indication is offset); a one-minute tourbillon cage; and a one-minute frame outlining and turning the base of the watch.
Jaeger-LeCoultre, Duomètre Heliotourbillon Perpetual
Not only did this top-notch Swiss brand create an all-new movement for the Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual watch, but it also developed an all-new 34-part 44mm case to showcase its sophisticated mechanics and alluring aesthetics. The watch also boasts an all-new tourbillon construction featuring three axes, each of which rotates at a different speed for visual impact, as well as high-precision timekeeping. The manually wound in-house-made Caliber 388 offers hours, minutes, seconds, the Heliotourbillon, perpetual calendar (day, date, month and year) and moonphase indication to the year 2100. It also features an oversized Grand Date. The movement can be sent backward or forward without affecting the perpetual calendar — something that cannot be done with most perpetual calendar watches. Crafted in 18K pink gold, it offers two barrels, each with a power reserve of 46 hours and each with its own indication on the dial for a harmonious appeal.
Louis Moinet, Around The World in Eight Days
Forever fascinated with the world around us, Jean-Marie Schaller, owner and creative director of Louis Moinet, has created a unique set of eight individual watches under the collection name: Around the World in Eight Days. Each watch in the set depicts a different global city and uses both haute horology tourbillon movements and métiers d’arts of different types. The Tokyo version is particularly delightful thanks to the actual origami crane (the symbol of happiness and longevity) made of metallic paper and positioned on the dial alongside cherry blossoms, with a background of Mount Fuji hand-painted on an aventurine dial. The watch, like the others in the set, is powered by a flying tourbillon hand-wound movement equipped with a double barrel and offering 96 hours of power reserve. The 40.7mm 18K 5N rose gold case is new and boasts a domed sapphire crystal.
Louis Vuitton, Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillion Sapphire Frank Gehry
Further demonstrating its expertise in haute horology and artistic edginess, Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon Sapphire Frank Gehry watch is a deft blend of the brand’s La Fabrique du Temps movement facility and the work of visionary architect Frank Gehry. The watch, which carries the Poinçon de Genève seal attesting to its exceptional craftsmanship, features a 160-part mechanical movement with flying tourbillon escapement visible from the dial side beneath ribbons of white that traverse the totally transparent sapphire case and skeletonized movement. It is a representation of Gehry’s asymmetrical architectural forms. The collaboration took two years to achieve and the entire watch is cut from a single block of sapphire over the course of 250 hours. The 43.8mm watch boasts Gehry’s signature engraved on the caseback. Just five will ever be made.
Montblanc, 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph LE100
Montblanc’s new 1858 Minerva Unveiled Monopusher Chronograph features five case-side apertures in transparent crystal for viewing of the exceptional hand-finished manually wound movement. The new 291-part caliber MB M17.26 has been created in-house with an architectural eye to allow for light and dimension. In fact, the functions of the caliber have been flipped over so that they can be enjoyed from the front (dial-less) side. To bring the chronograph functions to the forefront, the watchmakers have built the movement on pillars, so the wearer can view its beauty not just from the front and sapphire caseback but also from the five apertures. Just 100 pieces will be made.
Panerai, Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAMO 1800
A world first, Panerai’s all-new Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 watch draws inspiration from Panerai’s Elux luminescent technology (electroluminescence) that was patented in 1966 (and used as a significant instrument for watches for the Italian Navy). The new Elux LAB-ID boasts four patents and was years in the making in the brand’s Laboratorio di Idee, which has created multiple concept watches over the years. Water resistant to 500 meters, the 49mm watch features a 30-minute on-demand Power Light function that is a breakthrough innovation. The wearer need only open the patented pusher-protector system to activate the mechanically powered illumination. The watch also boasts a linear power light reserve indicator, patented hands and patent-pending bezel marker. The 49mm case is made of the ultra-new proprietary patent-pending Ti-Ceramitech — a ceramized titanium material. The revolutionary watch is powered by a new 363-part automatic mechanical movement with anti-shock device.
Parmigiani Fleurier, Toric Chronograph Rattrapante
With a decidedly classic look and an alluring coffee-coloured rose gold dial, Parmigiani Fleurier takes the concept of the split-seconds chronogrpah to new heights with its Toric Chronograph Rattrapante watch. The 42.5mm 18K rose gold watch is powered by the brand’s PF361 movement that is equipped with a double column-wheel integrated chronograph. The 285 parts of this high-frequency watch are all hand-finished and -assembled. The Rattrapante allows for timing of multiple events with the same starting time and different ending times. This watch is finished with an antique-white strap. Just 30 will be made.
Patek Philippe, World Time Ref. 5330G-001
One can always count on this venerable brand to unveil a first, and 2024 is no exception. The new World Time Ref. 5330G-001 is the first world time watch with a patented date display that is synchronized with the local time. Most world timers with date require the wearer to change the date independently of the time zone. Patek Philippe’s master watchmakers, though, couple the date with the local time zone so that the wearer only needs to change the zone; the date automatically adjusts. The Ref. 5330G is powered by a new 306-part, in-house- made, ultra-thin, self-winding movement (caliber 240 HUC) that boasts a unique differential system to indicate the date on the outer rim of the dial using a transparent glass hand with a hammerhead tip. Crafted in white gold, the 40mm watch carries the prestigious Patek Philippe Seal.
Piaget, Altiplano Ultimate Concept Flying Tourbillon
Regularly breaking its own records when it comes to ultra-thin watches, Swiss brand Piaget is a master at combining elegance and technology. Its newest Altiplano Ultimate Concept watch, created in honor of the brand’s 150th anniversary, is the world’s thinnest tourbillon timepiece. Measuring a scant 2mm in thickness, the 41.5mm-diameter watch has a movement that is integrated into the caseback — as opposed to being freestanding — and inserted into the case. For this watch, the brand turned to a blue PVD (physical vapor deposition) cobalt alloy case. The constantly moving flying tourbillon escapement is visible at 10 o’clock on the dial side of this extraordinary feat. Just 15 pieces will ever be made.
Richard Mille, RM 27-05 Flying Tourbillon Rafael Nadal
The all-new RM 27-05 Flying Tourbillon Rafael Nadal watch is deemed Richard Mille’s lightest weight and most resilient watch thanks to its incredible new composite case made of Carbon TPT B.4, which was five years in the making with partner North Thin Ply Technology. The watch, which is resistant to accelerations of more than 14,000 gauss, weighs just 11.5 grams (excluding the strap). These are two new records for a manual-wind tourbillon timepiece. The new watch, born of the brand’s long-standing relationship with tennis great Rafael Nadal, features a movement based on the RMUP-01 ultra-thin caliber that was an Elite Traveler Top Watch pick in 2022. More than 4,000 hours of research and development went into designing the caliber and case, and the entire mechanism resides inside the monobloc case — only the flange and bezel hold it in place. Just 80 pieces will be made.
Roger Dubuis, Excalibur Sunrise Double Tourbillon
Recalling nature’s finest moments — such as the sunrise — the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Sunrise Double Tourbillon timepiece is a whirlwind of time and motion. The fully skeletonized and visible (from both sides) movement boasts two constantly rotating tourbillon escapements between 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock on the dial. The 319-part mechanical movement features 17 different finishes that offer different interplays with light for depth and dimension. The 45mm 18K gold case is meticulously set with gemstones that reflect the sun: red garnets, orange spessartites and yellow sapphires. Only eight pieces will be made.
TAG Heuer, Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph
Car and watch lovers alike have fallen for this all-new TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph — unveiled this year to celebrate the first Monaco released 55 years ago in 1969. Built in Grade 5 titanium, the square watch is light in weight and dynamite in looks. It is powered by a skeletonized mechanical split-seconds chronograph movement (made in partnership with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier) that operates at 5Hz for extreme precision. A sapphire caseback allows for viewing of the movement with its race-inspired checkered motif on the rotor.
Ulysse Nardin, Freak S Nomad
Always evolving its famed Freak watch (first unveiled in 2001), Ulysse Nardin has released the Freak S Nomad this year with a mainplate created in hues of desert sands that conjure thoughts of nomadic lifestyles. The watch is the brand’s strongest, most technically advanced Freak S to date. It has a constantly moving carousel (similar in looks and function to the tourbillon escapement) that is shaped like a spaceship and is devoid of hands, dial and crown. Crafted in titanium with carbon fiber and a PVD titanium bezel for setting the time, the Freak S Nomad is equipped with two oscillators with silicon balance wheels for exceptional durability. The 373-part movement, Caliber UN-251, is also equipped with the brand’s patented proprietary Grinder winding system. Only 99 pieces will be made.
Vacheron Constantin, Berkley Grand Complication
A master at creating highly complicated record-breaking watches, Vacheron Constantin this year unveils the fruit of 11 years of research and development on the part of three master watchmakers in its Ateliers Les Cabinotiers department. The Berkley Grand Complication two-sided pocket watch boasts the world’s first Chinese Perpetual Calendar — accurate to the year 2200. It has been deemed the most complicated watch in the world; the movement, Caliber 3752, is equipped with 2,877 hand-finished, hand-assembled parts. In fact, it took one watchmaker a full year to assemble it. Commissioned by American billionaire William Berkley, the watch boasts 63 complications, including two different perpetual calendars. The Chinese Perpetual Calendar was thought to be too complex to put into a watch due to its lunisolar system, different numbers of days per month, and differing start and end dates of the Chinese New Year, among other factors. But Vacheron Constantin’s masters accomplished the feat. The watch also features the Gregorian Perpetual Calendar, chronograph, triple-axis tourbillon, world time and second time-zone indication.
Van Cleef & Arpels, Brise d’Été watch
Perhaps no other brand in the world can tell a poetic story on the wrist like Van Cleef & Arpels. Its newest 38mm 18K white gold Brise d’Été watch, part of its Poetic Complications collection, is a prime example. The incredible dial is created using plique-à-jour (similar to a stained-glass effect) and other enamel techniques against a mother-of-pearl background to showcase blooming flowers in all their glory. But the true beauty of this timepiece is the two enamel butterflies that flutter around the dial as the flowers sway in what could be a summer breeze. The flight of fancy is set into motion with the push of a button at half past seven on the case side. The dance lasts 12 seconds, then the butterflies flutter back to their spot to indicate the hour on a diamond-set retrograde outer scale that runs from 10 o’clock to 4 o’clock on the dial. The yellow-orange butterfly indicates daytime hours and the blue butterfly indicates nighttime hours. Each watch is numbered.
We’ll be celebrating the launch of Elite Traveler’s Top Watches across our Instagram and other social channels throughout September. Search #ETTopWatches to join in.
