The so-called ‘Bilbao effect’ is the idea that when a typically overlooked city – in this case, the Spanish city of Bilbao – builds a world-class cultural institution – here being the arrival of the Frank Gehry-designed Guggenheim Museum Bilbao – and voila! Here come the tourists. While this phenomenon has been debated endlessly (and with many claiming to debunk it), a similar case can be seen in the neighboring city of San Sebastián: except the people flocking to this stretch of northern Spain are not hungry for culture per se, they’re just plain hungry.
The Spanish beach town is seen as the Michelin equivalent of Mecca for a reason: the city holds the most Michelin stars in Europe, and the second most in the world. Contributing three to the city’s total of 16 Michelin stars is Akelarre.
Perched on the rugged cliffs above the Bay of Biscay, Akelarre and chef Pedro Subijana have been at the forefront of shaping this region’s culinary identity. Subijana has been steering the ship at Akelarre since 1975, guiding it to its first Michelin star three years later, a second in 1982, and finally the coveted third in 2007 – securing Akelarre’s rightful spot in every foodie’s guidebook along the way.
More than a destination for indulgence alone, in 2017 Subijana also opened up a hotel, making Aklearre a place to both savor and unwind. This boutique hotel offers 22 rooms, including two expansive suites, a spa and fitness center, plus an additional restaurant and bar. And as part of the prestigious Relais & Châteaux collection, you know you’re in safe (and luxurious) hands.
[See also: A Guide to All Three-Michelin-Star Restaurants in Spain]
Stay
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Designed by the Madrid-based architectural firm Mecanismo, the 22 rooms at Akelarre sprawl across two floors and are built into the hillside. This means every room offers the most luxurious thing of all; sure, uninterrupted spectacular sea views, but I’m talking about the promise of complete privacy. Each room also has access to a terrace to make the best use of that showstopping view.
While we stayed in the Panoramic Deluxe Suite – which takes the indulgence up a notch in square footage, thanks to the huge bathroom that features a sunken bathtub almost the size of the Bay of Biscay itself – the ultimate bedrest at Akelarre, two available Akelarre Ocean Suites, go even further to offer its own private plunge pool.
All rooms also have a Bang & Olufsen sound system throughout, and a huge TV with Netflix and Apple TV connectivity that feels effortlessly modern. Meanwhile, QR codes and leaflets dotted around the room explain everything from the room service menus to the Pur Purr products in the bathroom to the property’s many sustainability efforts.
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Dine
At the heart of Akelarre lies, of course, the triple Michelin-starred restaurant, but for those seeking a more casual dining experience – or, like us, staying over a Monday when Akelarre is closed – Oteiza restaurant offers Basque classics that, while perhaps less intricate than its sibling’s dishes, are nonetheless as delicious and delightful. With its retro-futurist interiors featuring a mid-century-style bar, cozy low lighting and warm wood paneling, Oteiza might just be the only restaurant in Spain where I’d recommend sitting down for dinner while it is still light, because sitting at a table overlooking the cliffs as the sun sinks below the horizon makes for the perfect prelude to an unforgettable meal.
Oteiza offers à la carte service, where attentive and welcoming staff are eager to listen to your preferences and recommend anything from wine to dishes. But if you are to ask me, anything from the menu will prove to delight, from the very beginning of its signature snacks, an egg foam wrapped in Iberico ham and marinated anchovies – a refined take on Basque bar snacks, pintxos – through to the standout of the mains, the roasted suckling pig with a rich, sticky jus served with crispy puffed potato. And I have not stopped thinking about the fresh tuna belly carpaccio, topped with wasabi ice cream and scattered with sesame and tiny dried prawns. Crunchy, cool and refreshing; unforgettable.
Rounding with petits fours should certainly not be turned down but feels all the more indulgent when returning to the bedroom, where we are greeted with the most delicious chocolate almond tarts that make for the perfect midnight treat.
[See also: OKU Ibiza: Honoring the Magic of the White Isle]
Relax
After a night of pure indulgence – and a breakfast room service of a Spanish tortilla omelet with potatoes and fresh pastries – Akelarre’s wellness center is our first stop. When the goal of a trip is consumption, perhaps some would also recommend checking out the fitness center, however, we head straight to the seductive, stone-clad spa to unwind on one of the dangerously comfortable beds and take in those sweeping sea views.
Recharged, we make full use of the 8,600 sq-ft spa, its black marble-lined indoor pool with hydromassage jets, a marble steam room, and a sauna. There are also three treatment rooms, with one set up for couples, which offer natural products. Not to mention, when not wearing a bathing robe, Akelarre also has a library and its standout terraces, which in the warmer seasons also open as an outdoor cocktail bar.
Explore
By now, you’ve probably gathered that few come to San Sebastián without planning to loosen their belts by the end. Just a 15-minute drive from the city, Akelarre makes for the ideal base to explore San Sebastián’s renowned charm, characters and stunning beaches. While you need to make reservations at some of the city’s most famous eateries, make sure to spend at least one evening getting lost wandering the streets of the city’s old town. Step into any pintxo bar that catches your eye, and you’re sure to enjoy a memorable bite.
Rather than taking part in a culinary pilgrimage, many visitors also stop by San Sebastián as part of the famous Camino de Santiago trail. While there are many different routes throughout Spain – and even some that venture into neighboring Portugal – the Camino del Norte goes through the Basque region, with picturesque coastal walks across the rugged beauty of northern Spain.
Alternatively, for wine lovers, the nearby Rioja region also offers an easy day trip; its renowned vineyards on the border provide tastings and tours that delve into the heart of Spanish winemaking.
San Sebastián is also the doorstop to the rest of the Basque Country, with the incredibly quaint city of Biarritz just a 45-minute drive over the French border. And, of course, Bilbao is around an hour in the other direction—which I hear has a very popular museum that is worth stopping by.
[See also: Six Senses Rome is Bringing New Life to the Eternal City]
