There’s a lot to photograph on my bumpy ride from Delhi to Agra: camels pulling carts, a bike-riding man balancing a swaying tower of papadums atop his head, women in jewel-hued saris building cabins from cow pies in dusty fields, a painted elephant, a snake charmer at a roadside stop and men in white robes smoking hookah pipes. But, nothing compares to the first moment I walk through the majestic lobby of Oberoi Amarvilas and spot the Taj Mahal in all its glory nearly within touching distance.
By far the most evocative hotel in atmospheric Agra, this haven of classical Mughal architecture, built as a transportive palace, presents the Taj from a multiplicity of panoramic windows, never allowing me to forget where I am. It instantly fulfills — in fact, surpasses — the India of my imagination.
With staff clad in colorful Rajasthani garb, complete with headdresses, Oberoi Amarvilas treats every guest like a maharaja — which feels just right in such a regal hotel. Only 1,970 ft from the Taj Mahal, the retreat is an extravagance of great rooms, fragrant gardens, reflection pools, terraces, pavilions and ornate nooks, all swirled around an immense, tiled, glimmering swimming pool — the whole scene stares straight at the Taj Mahal.
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Pro tips: Regarding the pool, give yourself the gift of time and lounge in a pool-side chair here. Though you’ll be tempted to leave the hotel to sightsee, there’s something about sipping a cocktail in swimwear with the snow-colored Taj floating cloud-like a breath away. It’s a divine way to pass the long afternoon between your cursory morning and afternoon visits to the Taj. And, please, please reserve more than one night —two is ideal — at this bedazzling hotel. If you don’t, you’ll find yourself sobbing upon departure. Yes. This hotel is that good.
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Nothing can compete with the legendary Taj Mahal — unless it’s Amarvilas’ lavish Kohinoor Suite, the hotel’s piece-de-resistance. This queenly sanctum, a multi-roomed exuberance of glitziness and sophistication, echos the mood of the Taj, which it also showcases. The monument is framed like a postcard perfect image in window after window — including one outfitted with a decadent bathtub for soaking with a pampered view.
With a guest roster that includes royals (Kate and William), film stars, world leaders and fashionable jet setters galore, the suite — with its marble, crystal, Indian artwork and captivating antiques — feels like an extension of the monument it overlooks. Don’t miss a private breakfast on the terrace, served by your butler. At that hour, the Taj Mahal wears a cloak of exquisite pink light.
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Design
Many of my favorite hotels on earth have been designed by the inimitable Bill Bensley, who manages to weave a theatrical fantasy world into every project. He knows how to pose a folkloric reverie from a design standpoint that embodies the location, its history and that palpable otherworldliness that feeds our inner adventurer. Almost a storybook rendering come to life, his design concept of Oberoi Amarvilas sublimely re-imagines a bygone Mughal, peppered with Rajasthani accents and gracefulness.
Dine
Oberoi Amarvilas keeps things elegantly uncomplicated with just two restaurants. All-day, Italian-infused Bellevue specializes in international fare, stellar pizza and Indian classics. But, Esphahan, a fancier haven, takes center stage as the hotel’s star attraction. Open only at dinner, it serves a range of toothsome Mughal-style dishes. To sample a variety, try the three-course Thali, which delivers an assortment of Indian appetizers, a main plate and a dessert.
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Drink to views of the Taj Mahal at The Bar (the only bar with uninterrupted views of the Taj Mahal in the world ) and in The Library. Snacks can be ordered poolside, a prime hotspot for lunch, as well. Don’t miss one of the resort’s special bespoke culinary experiences, including private balcony dining in your suite (views of the Taj Mahal from every room) or dining under the stars in various hidden corners of the garden.
Relax
Do tree pose while facing the marvelous Taj Mahal. Offering complimentary yoga and meditation practices daily, Oberoi Amarvilas can also arrange private sessions in a variety of locations. Recharge at the hotel’s stunning Oberoi Spa, a garden-edged sanctum of tranquility that offers both Eastern and Western therapies.
Kohinoor Suite from $14,000, oberoihotels.com
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