Bébé Bob’s concept is simple: chicken, champagne and caviar in a glam hideaway in London’s Soho. If that sounds like fun, trust us – it is. The playful younger sibling of the iconic Bob Bob Ricard – famed for its Insta-worthy ‘press for champagne’ buttons – opened last fall on a quiet corner of Golden Square, across the street from the original site on Upper James Street.
It’s the third outpost from restaurateur Leonid Shutov, following the opening of the glitzy Bob Bob Ricard, City, back in 2019. Those who have visited either of the sister properties can expect the same flamboyant interiors with a more casual vibe and pared-back menu.
Veggies and vegans can stop reading here; the only options at Bébé Bob are chicken and… more chicken. So if you’re looking for something meat-free, this isn’t the spot for you. For those with a penchant for rotisserie-style chicken, however, it’s the stuff of dreams.
A quick warning: tables are strictly limited to up to four guests. “Larger groups, alas, cannot be accommodated,” reveals the website. This all adds to the fun. You won’t find any big, rowdy groups at Bébé Bob – the plush velvet dining room has an intimate, buzzy feel that will make you want to linger over your dinner.
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Chef
Group chef director Ben Hobson helms the kitchen at Bébé Bob, working closely alongside head chef Sherwin Mauro.
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Hobson’s career kicked off at the Michelin-starred Galvin at Windows – a fine dining eatery on the 28th floor of the Hilton Hotel on Park Lane. The ambitious young chef moved to Tom Kerridge’s Hand & Flowers in Marlow, Buckinghamshire – the UK’s only two-Michelin-starred pub – before returning to Galvin at Windows where he steadily rose through the ranks to become senior sous chef.
In 2020, he took over the kitchen at Bob Bob Ricard, City and within two years had been promoted to group chef director, overseeing the culinary offerings for all three restaurants.
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Menu
The menu at Bébé Bob is fuss-free. Hobson makes no bones about the fact it is chicken – and chicken alone – that is the star of the show here. Of course, only the very best, free-range birds make the cut. Diners can choose from two varieties: either Vendée chicken from the Pays de la Loire region of western France or Landaise chicken from Gascony.
We opted for Vendée – the milder of the two that has a more tender texture. Both are cooked rotisserie-style and served with a pot of decadent chicken jus. An assortment of tasty sides spanning everything from truffled French fries to sauteed kale and chicken fat roast potatoes give the feel of an (extremely fancy) roast dinner.
Naturally, the menu is brimming with caviar – Siberion, Amurski, Oscietra or all three if you can’t choose – served with pillowy blinis and dollops of crème fraiche. Everything is washed down with chilled champagne (the tableside button might be gone but there’s still a lengthy list of fizz).
There’s also a nice selection of starters; slivers of smoked salmon on rye bread were the perfect start to the meal. The menu might be sparse but it’s clear the ingredients are of exceptional quality – right down to the artisan Cornish sea-salted butter and freshly baked bread.
Desserts (if you have any space) pack a real punch. The limoncello-flavored sorbet comes with a shot of vodka, while the Tarte Tatin is served with a heady calvados ice cream. Booze – like chicken – at Bébé Bob is almost impossible to avoid.
Interiors
If Bébé Bob feels familiar, it’s because Daniel Monk – the London-based studio behind Bob Bob Ricard – was brought back in to put his stamp on the interiors. Stepping through the door, you’re greeted by a circular bar topped with golden granite – a lovely spot to stop for a drink if you arrive early.
Try to get a seat in the mahogany-paneled dining room at the back if possible. Decorated in sultry hues of red and blue, Monk has kitted out the space with sleek marble tables, lashings of velvet and cozy leather banquettes. An evening spent here feels like a treat.
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