Walking past a gym (a hardcore Psycle studio, no less) probably isn’t most people’s desired way to enter a restaurant. Especially not one where they know they are about to consume a minimum of five courses, likely a glass of champagne, maybe a wine pairing and quite possibly a cocktail to round things off. For Cornus though, the shame-inducing entrance is worth it.
Tucked away on a back corner of London’s Eccleston Yards – a shopping and dining hub on the fringes of Belgravia, where you will also find fancy wine bars, high-end boutiques and, if you fancy it, several gyms – Cornus opened in August by David O’Connor and Joe Mercer Nairne, best known the fan-favorite Medlar in nearby Chelsea.
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But while Cornus might be posh (and have a price point to match its locale), it is also welcoming and friendly – the team is, from what I can see, in their own (very smart) clothes instead of uniform, and everything is done with a smile and a much-need sense of fun. Everyone is here for a nice time (neighboring gym or not); there’s no typical West London stuffiness here, and Cornus is all the better for it.
“We have been finessing the Cornus offering for a number of years and we are incredibly excited to finally bring this to fruition,” O’Connor explained in a pre-opening press release. “What we are creating builds on the Medlar reputation while delivering a fresh perspective on French dining to Belgravia.”
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Related
Must order:
The roast Newlyn cod
What to drink:
Content from our partners
A clarified coffee negroni to finish
Best seat in the house:
Get a group together and book the private dining room
Chef
O’Connor and Nairne have assembled a star-studded team to run the show at Cornus. Heading up the kitchen is executive chef Gary Foulkes, who joins from Michelin-starred Angler – a seafood-focussed spot way over on the other side of the city, in highrise-dotted Moorgate. Pastry chef Kelly Cullen joins from the now-closed but once-Michelin-starred Cornerstone.
Several Medlar alumni have joined the fold too. Former head sommelier leads Cornus’ wine program as wine director (with help from Lukasz Gorski, recently named World Young Sommelier of the Year), while Medlar’s previous head barman Mario Aranquez is manning the bar.
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Menu
Cornus opened with an a la carte-only menu, but as it eased into its stride – and, quite possibly, clocked the demand for choice-free fine dining – the restaurant expanded to offer a fixed tasting menu too. As with the a la carte offering, it’s all about classic French-inspired cookery here, and both menus will change seasonally. No one is trying to reinvent the wheel; instead, its flavor combinations that we know and love, brought to life using some of the finest British (with a few jumps over to the continent) ingredients available. Lovely.
That new set menu is listed as five courses, but as is the case with most, there are a few extra surprises – namely a trio of snacks, of which a decadent, melt-in-your-mouth gruyere cheese bomb beats the competition to stand out as the best. Ensuing courses are delicate but decadent: a seabass tartare is enlivened with oyster cream and flashes of tart apple and crimson-centered bluefin tuna meets its match in smoked almond pesto and the last of the summer’s tomatoes.
The stand-out favorite on our table, though, came from the bountiful shores of Cornwall. Newlyn cod is air dried before being roasted to create a butter-endowed crisp on the outside, with the inside flesh still flaky and moist. On its side, herby girolles mushrooms from Scotland and a crunchy square of fondant potato. In other words, a very posh take on fish and chips. (Curiously though, the Alsace bacon listed on the menu didn’t seem to make it to the plate.)
Desserts are no afterthought and the tasting menu offers a choice: a rich dark chocolate barquette with pistachio cream and a tuille of salted caramel and an indulgent apricot and chamomile Mille-feuille. If you’re dining as a duo, order both and share; it’s worth arguing over the last bite.
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Interiors
Too often, restaurant interiors veer toward the extreme – stark Scandi-inspired decor has become the mainstay of some; dark, I-need-a-torch-to-read-the-menu is a signature of others. Thankfully Cornus has struck the perfect balance.
Created by London-based Day Studio, during the day the 70-cover restaurant takes its cues from mid-century modern principles with light woods and gentle flashes of warm ochre. A touch of upscale glamour comes courtesy of pressed white tablecloths and a flashy marble bar. By day, the space is bathed in natural light thanks to soaring skylight windows, while by night, sheer curtains and golden-hued lights imbue a sense of coziness. It’s as welcoming to family groups as it is to loved-up couples.
When weather allows, a rooftop terrace (with city views) beckons and for bigger parties, there’s a 14-seat private dining room.
Cornus, 27c Eccleston Place, London, SW1W 9NF, cornusrestaurant.co.uk
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