If you’re looking at booking a flight to Athens, I’m probably not spilling a secret when I say this, but you know this city is old, right? Really old. Europe’s oldest capital, to be exact, has traces of human life stretching back over 5,000 years. The city is so steeped in history that stumbling upon an active archaeological dig is just as likely as finding a neon-lit gift shop. But here’s the kicker: about a 30-minute drive outside the city, you’ll find a throwback of a different sort. While it’s not exactly ancient, the Athens Riviera is its own sort of time capsule from the 1960s.
It’s no surprise that the Athens Riviera has long been a haven for the Hollywood glamorous. Back in the 60s, this stretch of coastline was a magnet for the elite – think Jackie O, Brigitte Bardot and Aristotle Onassis, lounging beneath striped umbrellas and sipping martinis at Astir Palace. These days, the global jet set is slowly rediscovering this corner of the world. For decades, Athens was seen as little more than a gateway to the islands – a pit stop en route to glittering waters and whitewashed villages. But tourists are waking up to the fact that there’s far more to this city than a quick layover – and the Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens, perched proudly on the Riviera, has a lot to do with this shift.
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The iconic Astir Palace hotel, once the crown jewel during the heydays of the Athens Riveria’s ’60s glamour, was reimagined and reopened in 2019 as Four Seasons’ first Greek outpost, after a $250m renovation. It’s a transformation that has elevated Athens’ reputation as a luxury destination, soon to be joined by heavyweights like One&Only Aesthesis and blocks of luxe private residences.
Yet, even with its modern makeover, Astir Palace has retained the spirit of its golden age. On a quiet escape in mid-fall, catching the very last rays of the shoulder season and watching the superyachts bob lazily on the horizon, one thing is clear: the Athens Riviera isn’t just a nostalgic nod to the past – it’s poised to become the next must-visit destination for Mediterranean vacationers.
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Stay
Being a sprawling resort spread across 74 acres means when walking around Four Seasons Astir Palace, it feels like you have it all to yourself. You can wander through the pine and pomegranate-tree wooded grounds, passing tennis, padel and basketball courts without bumping into another guest. But should you feel lost, the hotel’s fleet of golf buggies is always on speed dial to whisk you wherever you need to be.
The 303 total rooms are split between the two main properties. Guests will likely first arrive at Arion, the brutalist-style, 1960s building that houses the heart of the action: the adults-only swimming pool, the spa, and the more formal of the resort’s dining outlets. Then there’s the Nafsika wing – glossy, glamorous and designed to dazzle in the Greek sun. This newer addition raises the stakes with designer boutiques, a state-of-the-art gym and its own pool scene.
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While Arion boasts the hotel’s crown jewels of accommodation – its three specialty suites, including the most indulgent Arion Riviera Suite – it’s the Bungalows, scattered among the pine trees, that quietly take center stage. As the first part of the Astir Palace estate to be built in 1961, these 61 Bungalows retain the same magnetic allure today as they did during the Riviera’s golden age. Choices range from garden-view hideaways to one-bedroom suites overlooking Vouliagmeni Beach, and each opens onto an expansive terrace – a lucky few even boast private pools.
The Bungalow’s interiors feel coastal-inspired with nods to its glamorous 1960s roots: a soothing palette of soft blues, sandy neutrals and crisp whites that echo the surrounding Aegean landscape. Soft linens, Diptyque lotions and potions, and an especially deep soaking tub invite long, luxurious evenings spent in the marbled bathroom suite. Beyond the privacy they offer, the Bungalows also put you just steps away from Vouliagmeni Beach. A short barefoot stroll down a private path leads directly to the golden sands, making them the perfect choice for sunset-seekers and beach lovers alike.
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Dine
Most mornings at the Four Seasons Astir Palace usually begin on Nafsika’s sprawling terrace at Mercato. It’s the spot for a breezy buffet breakfast, complete with everything from freshly baked pastries to healthy options, and plenty of local delicacies. It’s once breakfast is over that you have to make some tough calls. At lunchtime, you’re spoilt for choice, with ceviche and margaritas served up at the laidback Latin American Helios, seasonal cocktails and elevated bar snacks at Avra, steak at Beefbar Athens or sushi at Matsuhisa of Nobu fame.
Dinner, thankfully, narrows the playing field. If you’re in the mood for something authentic and casual, make your way to Taverna 37. This waterfront gem channels the easygoing spirit of a traditional Greek taverna, where you can dine by candlelight, lulled by the sound of the ocean as mezze trays swirl past between tables. Don’t shy away from the dolmades; sure, they might feel like the touristy choice, but they’re utterly delicious, and who’s too proud for a classic done right?
But if you’re after a dressier occasion, Pelagos is the undeniable, and quite literal, star of the resort’s dining lineup. This Michelin-starred destination is bolder and more experimental than you’d expect from a hotel restaurant – maybe even for the Four Seasons. Italian chef Luca Piscazzi hopped over the Mediterranean to head up Pelagos’s kitchen, cooking up a menu inspired by the sea that connects its home country to his new home – the restaurant’s name Pelagos comes from the Greek for ocean.
You know you’re in for a treat when the meal begins with an overflowing basket of bread, a golf-ball-sized scoop of beurre blanc butter and a flight of olive oils to sample (more like guzzle), each hand-selected from the islands that now lay just out of sight. Hearty, gamey fall meals are not something you might first associate with Greek food, but Pelago’s seasonal tasting menu and Piscazzi puts forward a firm case that quickly changes my mind.
A starter of Mandarin, caviar and sea urchin means the menu begins fresh and mouth-plucking, lip-licking salty, before moving into richer and more comforting dishes like a cuttlefish carbonara and pigeon with blackberries and beetroot. But it’s the supplements that prove well worth beyond the (surprisingly reasonable) investment. It’s easy to understand why the crispy, sage-striped sole, draped in a champagne beurre blanc and accented with sharp bursts of raspberries, is Pelagos’s signature, before finishing with a delectable chocolate souffle that’s well worth unbuttoning your belt for.
[See also: Food and Drink in Athens: a Gastronomic Guide]
Relax
The Athens Riviera is made for basking in the Mediterranean sun, and the Four Seasons offers no shortage of ways to do just that. There’s the main pool, which sprawls along the seafront before Nafsika, perfect for families or a lazy afternoon with a cocktail in hand. For those seeking a quieter escape, the adults-only infinity pool, tucked into the cliffside, offers serene views and total tranquility. And if you prefer your relaxation beachside, the resort’s three private beaches are a dream, each outfitted with cabana-style sunbeds and poolside service courtesy of Kyma Beach Bar.
If you prefer to explore beyond the benefits of phototherapy and courtesy of a spa physician, the Four Seasons Astir Palace Spa is a sanctuary unto itself. This ethereal retreat features a serene indoor pool, a traditional hammam, steam rooms, and ten treatment rooms where therapists work their magic with menus of detoxifying rituals.
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Explore
It would be a shame to stay so close to Athens and not dip into its rich cultural tapestry. A quick drive or private transfer takes you straight to the heart of the city, where the Acropolis and its iconic Parthenon dominate the skyline. Wander through the ancient ruins, explore the lively Plaka district with its winding streets and hidden tavernas, or lose yourself in the National Archaeological Museum, home to some of Greece’s most treasured artifacts.
If you prefer to stay closer to the resort, Vouliagmeni Lake offers a tranquil escape, with its thermal waters and striking natural beauty. For something more glamorous, the nearby Glyfada neighborhood is a hotspot for high-end shopping and buzzy restaurants.
But the Four Seasons truly shines in its ability to take exploration up a notch. Set sail on a private yacht to the Saronic Islands, where hidden coves and quiet beaches await. History buffs can enjoy an expert-led tour of Athens’ lesser-known archaeological sites, while food lovers might opt for a guided foray into the local culinary scene, complete with wine tastings or cooking classes. Feeling adventurous? A helicopter tour offers breathtaking views of the coastline and ancient city from above.
Arion Riviera Suite, Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens from $19,000 per night, fourseasons.com/athens
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