For the last four years, Geneva Watch Days has shaken up the world of horology. The concept? A decentralized event in which brands come together to reveal new timepieces to the public, discuss the current trends in the industry and celebrate what makes the world of watches tick.
What is Geneva Watch Days?
Initially conceived as a smaller, more intimate event for the watch world during the pandemic, today Geneva Watch Days has gained new legs, transforming from a quick solution into a beloved event where watch enthusiasts spend time with like-minded individuals and discover new releases.
This year, the event is running from August 29 – September 2, with the pavilion opening to the public each day, the event also puts on regular guided tours ideal for those looking to avoid missing a hidden gem.
Initially conceived in 2020 by a group of six founding brands: Breitling, Bvlgari, De Bethune, Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F, today Geneva Watch Days has swelled with an impressive 52 participating brands displaying more than 100 timepieces.
While the event itself is decentralized — with boutiques and showcases dotted around in different locations — Geneva is modest in size and exceptionally walkable. The vast majority of displays can be found next to the Rotonde du Mont-Blanc on the Quai du Mont-Blanc, with a couple of outliers just over the Rhone River, all within view of the city’s famed water fountain.
With so many famed watch brands and their followers gathering in the same spot, it’s no wonder many of these companies take the opportunity to reveal what they have been working on over the last 12 months.
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So we have trawled through some of the most exciting releases from this year’s Geneva Watch Days and devised a list of some unmissable timepieces.
Jacob & Co
A rare American brand in the world of luxury horology, since 2002 Jacob & Co has made a name for itself by developing some of the most complex and visually intriguing watches on the market.
This year at Geneva Watch Days, things are no different as Jacob & Co has revealed a new and advanced version of its iconic Oil Pump watch, celebrating the piece’s fifth anniversary. The watch features the all-new Jacob & Co JCAM53 caliber movement, comprised of 450 components. There’s also a single-axis flying tourbillon that achieves a full rotation every 60 seconds.
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These improvements reduce the size of the watch giving it a far more wearable form factor. Strictly limited to only 88 pieces, this watch is ideal for those looking to make a statement with a genuine piece of art on the wrist. It also carries a price to match at $280,000.
[See also: Behind the Scenes with Girard-Perregaux and Aston Martin]
Daniel Roth
While there are plenty of horological titans at Geneva Watch Days, it’s also the ideal opportunity for some smaller brands to get some time in the limelight. Daniel Roth is the perfect example. Founded in 1989 and acquired by the Bulgari group in 2000, in 2015 watch production ceased before returning in 2023 with a single caveat. Daniel Roth produces less than 100 pieces a year.
This latest reveal, the Tourbillon Rose Gold, was inspired by the original Tourbillon C187. That was designed by Daniel Roth himself and the first watch to feature a large tourbillon on the dial.
Inside the 18k rose gold 5N case is a DR001 caliber movement is developed by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini. Due to the small team and high level of artisanal craft needed for each piece, there will only be 50 Daniel Roth Tourbillons produced each year. This Rose Gold Tourbillon is priced at a cool 155,000 CHF ($186,000) excluding taxes.
[See also: How Montblanc Creates the World’s Finest Pens]
Blancpain
Speaking of watchmaking titans, this year at Geneva Watch Days, Blancpain — the oldest watch brand in the world — has kept things refined and elegant by adding a new color to its Villeret collection, the most classic watches in its lineup.
Now those so inclined can purchase a Villeret Extraplate, Quantième Complet, Quantième Phases de Lune and Tourbillon Carrousel, with a beautiful sunburst green dial. Villeret is the spiritual home of Blancpain as it’s where founder Jehan-Jacques Blancpain began making watches in 1735.
The addition of the green dials pays homage to the Vallée de Joux fir trees that surround where these pieces are crafted in Le Brassus, Switzerland. Looking to cover every option from the highly complicated to the firmly understated, these pieces range in price greatly from $357,600 for the Villert Tourbillon Carrousel to $22,100 for the Villeret Extraplate. Those looking for a new timepiece could do worse than these intriguing green-dialed options.
[See also: Zenith Reveals Defy Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone]
L’Epée x MB&F
Now for something completely different. Of course, wristwatches receive a lot of coverage at Geneva Watch Days, but they are not the only timekeepers on display. Regular collaborators MB&F and L’Epée are showing off their latest masterpiece, Albatross.
Positioned as the collaborator’s most complex creation to date, this statement piece is comprised of 1,520 components. Coming from the mind of designer Eric Meyer, Albatross was inspired by the airship from the Jules Verne novel Robur the Conqueror that bears the same name. It features a striking hour function chiming both the specific hours on the hour, in addition to a single chime every half hour. The piece also includes a world-first complication, an automaton of 32 propellors that spring into action every hour.
At 2ft wide and 2ft tall, this is a serious statement piece, perfectly suited to the corner office of a CEO on the top floor of the skyscraper, where the airship will feel right at home. You’ll need a CEO’s salary as well as it’s limited to only eight pieces in each of the five available colors (Blue, red, green, black and champagne) all of which are priced at CHF 119,000 + taxes ($140,000).
[See also: $17m One-off Patek Philippe Leads Sales at 10th Edition of Only Watch]
De Bethune
This year at Geneva Watch Days, independent Swiss watch manufacturer De Bethune is showing off two new releases, the DB28xs Steel Wheels and the DB28xs Aérolite, both of which look to further the boundaries of modern watchmaking.
The DB28xs Steel Wheels is a new interpretation of the classic DB28 Steel wheels, this time in a smaller 39mm case. De Bethune is clear to point out that as opposed to miniaturizing the original, but instead created an entirely new watch that preserves the beauty of the original. This DB28xs is priced at $90,000.
Looking at the DB28 Aérolite, De Bethune has taken inspiration from previous pieces like the DB28xs Starry Seas and DB28XP Météorite models. Comprised of a 39mm black zirconium case and featuring a blue meteorite dial, this watch bridges the gap between the earth and the sky and is priced at $120,000.
[See also: The IWC Schaffhausen Watches Taking Off With Polaris Dawn]
Girard-Perregaux
As true masters of the tourbillon, Girard-Perregaux is sticking to what it knows best and at this year’s Geneva Watch Days has unveiled an updated version of its iconic Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges.
This piece takes its inspiration from Girard-Perregaux’s historic pocket watch designs, utilizing the three bridges and a skeleton structure to maximize the light that passes through the piece.
This updated version adds a more curved sapphire crystal and a larger crown in addition to satin finished hour and minute hands with superior Super-LumiNova. This new version will be particularly welcomed by those with slimmer wrists thanks to the decreased lug size.
As a true collector’s piece from one of the icons of watchmaking, the updated Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges is priced at $171,000.
