Hotel restaurants generally fall into one of two camps: unimaginative, overpriced and quiet, or innovative, unique and sought-after. The proprietors of London’s The Emory and its restaurant abc kitchens will be happy to know that this establishment falls firmly within the latter category.
When it opened earlier this year, The Emory grabbed headlines as London’s most expensive hotel, an impressive title to hold in a city that’s certainly not short of luxurious locations to rest your head. Having absolved itself of standard rooms altogether, The Emory only provides suites, a fact that certainly does some heavy lifting when it comes to explaining the lofty room charge.
Not that this will be of any concern to Maybourne, operator of The Emory, as well as Claridge’s, The Connaught and The Berkley — which sits directly next door. With so many iconic London hotels under its belt, Maybourne is essentially hospitality royalty at this point.
No bank-busting London hotel is complete without an equally high-class restaurant, and abc kitchens at The Emory doesn’t disappoint. The latest opening from French chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten abc Kitchens at The Emory is a blend of three of Vongerichten’s New York spots: abc kitchen, abcV and abc cocina.
The original abc kitchen is seen as somewhat of a bastion of the New York City dining scene, with its commitment to local produce that is fresh, organic, sustainable and ethically sourced making it a leading driver of farm-to-table in the Big Apple.
Its London reincarnation brings the same commitment to ethics, while adding the vegetarian delights of abcV and the Latin favors of abc cocina. The result is an establishment that has achieved the goal of many five-star hotel restaurants and become a destination in its own right.
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Must order:
Heirloom Beet Carpaccio
What to drink:
Cucumber Martini
Best seat in the house:
Snag the large booth to the left as you walk in
Chef
Jean-Georges Vongerichten is a chef/restauranter of epic proportions, boasting 27 restaurants in the United States alone. In London, Jean-Georges at The Connaught, The Connaught Grill and now abc Kitchens all fall under his banner.
At the start of his career, he cut his teeth in some of France’s finest Michelin star eateries. Vongerichten then headed to Asia, working in Bangkok, Singapore and Hong Kong, adding a new set of flavors to his toolkit.
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As Vongerichten developed as a chef he abandoned the traditional methods of utilizing meat stocks and cream to add depth of flavor, instead focusing on the vibrancy that can be garnered from vegetable juices, fruit essences and herbal vinaigrette. These techniques can be witnessed throughout the menu at abc kitchens.
While abc kitchens is firmly under Vongerichten’s stewardship, the man behind the stove is executive head chef Ben Boeynaems. Having worked under the tutelage of Gordon Ramsay and Eric Chavot, Boeynames brings an understanding of classic cooking that can only be developed with countless hours in a Michelin-star kitchen. Boeynames delivers this skill in an impressively approachable way perfectly suiting the vibe at abc kitchens by producing classics in an elevated manner.
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Menu
The menu is Vongerichten to a tee. Local, seasonal produce that’s vegetable-forward, recognizable but heightened. It’s also rather difficult to categorize, likely an intentional decision.
Dishes sweep the global culinary spectrum, from dosa and fried chicken to beer-batter maitake mushroom, pretzel-crusted calamari and pork confit tacos. If someone at your table can’t find something to their liking, it’s likely their issue not the restaurant.
Fans of Vongerichten’s cooking will be pleased to see the return of some classics. Spring pea guacamole, a dish that caused such fury 10 years ago that US President at the time Barack Obama headed to Twitter (now X) to decry, “not buying peas in guac. onions, garlic, hot peppers. classic.” Presidential disproval ignored, it remains one of Vongerichten’s most-loved dishes.
Not usually a fan of a faux meat dish, the Heirloom beet carpaccio was truly impressive, plated alongside an avocado purée and “flavors of tartare” it proved to be a punchy and flavorsome opening dish.
Far from totally excluded at this restaurant that enjoys pushing vegetables into the limelight, the char-grilled beef tenderloin was a delight, served with a vibrant chimichurri and lime.
Elevated techniques are plain to see in the tacos which bring a Latin influence to the menu, alongside a few zingy curveballs, such as the apple slaw that can be found in the crispy Dover sole tacos.
The food at abc kitchens is as eclectic as it is flavorsome, providing enough variety to keep everyone happy with dishes that are certainly not lacking in technique.
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Interiors
The restaurant’s interiors were handled by Rémi Tessier who took inspiration from the relaxed architectural spirit of the building. The dining room feels open and bright, helped by the large glass windows that overlook Hyde Park. Much like the food, the interiors feel incredibly approachable, with warm orange hues and plenty of wood lining its surfaces. Diners sit at a mixture of tables and booths, which provide a level of intimacy without ruining the restaurant’s ambiance.
The walls are lined by artwork from Damian Hirst and a 39-ft-long ‘Snacking couch’ is a statement feature.
For big occasions, book the private dining room. Known as ‘The Market Table’ this can sit up to 10 in a private space that also provides a glimpse into both the dining room and the kitchen pass.
Before or after dinner, The Emory Bar is a real highlight. The cocktail list is extensive and features complex unique serves, alongside all the expected classics.
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